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YDS: 5.10- French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 140'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10- French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: a badass
Season: all year
Page Views: 893
Submitted By: Geir on May 4, 2009

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Prima's two "shark gill" shallow corner ...


A stellar route with amazing features, great gear, and tons of surprise holds and placements which seem to appear just at the right time. One of the best 5.10s on Mount Lemmon. It is well worth the approach to the wall for this climb alone.

Climb right facing flakes to a stance under a bolt. Continue up steeper climbing including a short power lieback (large camalot) to thin 'shark gill' like cracks. Exit the crack system and follow the weakness up and slightly left to a ledge with 1/4" button head. Step right to two bolts and belay. Traverse off to right (west) and around exposed corner (easy 5th) to get to slab and walk off to summit.

The FA was done ground up and hand drilling on lead.


Walk in from SW gully (brush filled and unstable ground) to base of wall. From base of East gully, walk up 20' to base of route, or rap in from 2 bolt station next to small pine to base of route (rope gets stuck if you go all the way to ground every time- stop at ledge 20', pull rope, and down climb).


One bolt, double stoppers, double set camming units to #1 and singles #2-#3.

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