Pretty Hate Machine  5.12c

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Type:  Sport, 1 pitch Consensus:  5.12c [details] FA:  Steve Landin Submitted By:  richard magill on Dec 28, 2001 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (31) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

What a cool line through this roofy section!! Bur...

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Description 

Super-mega-ultra-classic! It is possibly the best sport route in the universe.

This route is rated 12b in the guides, but I think there is a broad consensus among everyone who climbs it that it is at least a letter grade harder than that.

This line is on the far left side of the Arsenal. It can be easily recognized by the fixed, chain draws.

The first difficulties are encountered early, where you do a series of 12a/b underclinging and sidepulling maneuvers to get past a small roof. The hardest part about the first 20 feet is tricky, slippery footwork.

Next, you enter a long stretch of big reaches on steep stone, all to good holds, but it is very pumpy. After a somewhat energy-sapping clip, you will do a little 12a maneuvering to a jug, where you will set up for the crux.

This involves a tenuous, middle 12 reach off of two slopers to a square-cut, arete-type feature. After standing, this move all the way up, there are jugs. It is wise to recover here, because there remains an 11+ roof above guarding the anchors.

If you send it, humble yourself by remembering that it is still one of the easiest lines in the Arsenal.

Protection 

9 bolts with fixed chains.

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Bad beta!	Pretty Hate Machine.	Resting up after the burly opening section.
Near the good rest below the crux.	Resting just below the PHM crux.