Scramble up the low angle slab to begin.
Use the right hand crack/block with some left hand face holds to get past clip 1 to a stance. Follow the crack/face straight up through this well protected 3 clip section to another stance. The crux starts here with good but a bit harder climbing with good feet. Follow the continuing crack for 3 clips to another good stance. Go through the last two clips with interesting moves to the anchors.
This is the last route on the right.
9 clips to anchors.
|Comments on Pretty Boy Floyd
Feb 22, 2011
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b
Good beginner route with a lot of options available.
|By Arlo F Niederer|
From: Fort Collins, CO
Mar 15, 2012
rating: 5.8- 5b 16 VI- VS 4c PG13
The placement of bolts on this one is a bit curious.
The bolts are a couple of feet to the left of the crack, which makes them harder to clip, unlike Crinoid Corner where they are much closer to the crack you are climbing.
The crux is the roof at the fifth bolt, which starts from a pretty large ledge, and the bolt easily clipped from the ledge (I'm 5'11). The bolt is too low above the roof - I climbed to where my waist was even with the bolt and hung on the rope...with rope stretch my feet touched the ledge. So, a fall from the above the bolt or at the awkward clip at the sixth bolt could be an ankle breaker.
Also, the anchors are placed a foot above a good stance for your feet for setting up the rappel or top rope. An extra foot of mediocre climbing is not worth a hanging stance....
I rate this PG-13 because of the fifth bolt and would not recommend this as a beginning leader route.
|By Morgan Patterson|
Feb 7, 2013
Just curious, why would you bolt this crack when it looks like you could place gear in it the entire way?
|By Robert Raithel|
From: Golden, CO
Apr 1, 2013
Seems to me that this is more of a common practice in sport climbing oriented climbing destinations. A lot of people aren't bringing trad racks to these crags just to climb a low-mid quality crack. I guess whoever bolted it just figured that it would be better to make this climb more accessible rather than leaving it alone. Probably would never see any action if it weren't for the bolts.
|By Jordan Hirro|
From: Colorado Springs/Glenwood Spri
Nov 4, 2013
Wouldn't necessarily agree with the PG-13. Perhaps if you're an upcoming leader trying to build some confidence, yes, they might be a little spacy towards the top, but all have great stances to clip. And I do agree that the crux is the roof at the 5th bolt, it's a bit sneaky but there. Have fun! :)