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 ADVANCED
Decadent Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Abortions on Parade T 
Adolescent Homosexual T 
Bestiality T 
Big Easy, The T 
Carol's Crack T 
Dimples and Tits S 
Divine Decadence T 
Dykes on Harleys T 
FDC T 
Flesh for Fantasy T,S 
Impotence T,S 
Life Without Sex S 
McKenzie's Crack T 
Nipples and Clits S 
Pluton Playground T 
Preteen Sex T 
Sexual Dysfunction S 
Testosterone Test T 
Too Much Testosterone T 
Twilight T 

Preteen Sex 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 120'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Goodwin, Steve Johnson '80s
Page Views: 7,112
Submitted By: Peter Gram on Jun 5, 2004

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (11)
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BETA PHOTO: Preteen Sex Topo

Description 

This route has many unique moves and is stout for the grade. The start is just to the right of the 3-bolt line, Nipples & Clits (5.8).

Jam and stem up two steep shallow cracks. This looks difficult to protect, but takes a #2 and #3 camalot quite well. Easier terrain up higher leads to a rightward traverse to a thin crack system. Follow this finger crack to the top with a few tough moves along the way.

Rappel with a 60m rope from either the anchors on Sex, Drugs, Rock & Roll (just to the right), or walk to the anchors near Carol's Crack.

Protection 

Standard Rack - TCU up to a #3 camalot


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