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Preteen Sex 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c

   
Type: Trad, 1 pitch, 120'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Goodwin, Steve Johnson '80s
Page Views: 6,982
Submitted By: Peter Gram on Jun 5, 2004
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BETA PHOTO: Preteen Sex Topo

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Description 

This route has many unique moves and is stout for the grade. The start is just to the right of the 3-bolt line, Nipples & Clits (5.8).

Jam and stem up two steep shallow cracks. This looks difficult to protect, but takes a #2 and #3 camalot quite well. Easier terrain up higher leads to a rightward traverse to a thin crack system. Follow this finger crack to the top with a few tough moves along the way.

Rappel with a 60m rope from either the anchors on Sex, Drugs, Rock & Roll (just to the right), or walk to the anchors near Carol's Crack.


Protection 

Standard Rack - TCU up to a #3 camalot



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