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Anarchy Wall
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Presto 

YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Kurt Smith.
Page Views: 1,371
Submitted By: Alan Nelson on Jul 25, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (19)
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Presto starts on the right side of this picture, a...
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Description 

The only thing that keeps this route from a three star rating are the rests that break the continuity. Skip the rests and you've got an awesome line (but you'll probably fall off...). Start with a .12a move off the deck, then work up left to an alcove (shake rest #1). Exit left high (harder) or low (easier) and wind up in a lay down slot (rest #2 - take a nap). Another .12a crux leads past two more bolts until you can swing around the corner (rest #3 - have a seat). Come back out onto the overhanging face for the final .12b crux to the anchor hooks. Add it all up and it comes to .12c, though some may argue it is only .12b because of the rests. Anyway you call it, it is a challenging redpoint that starts hard, stays hard, and saves the hardest for last.


Protection 

Eight bolts to a two bolt anchor with 1/2" open coldshuts.



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By Peter Franzen
Administrator
From: Phoenix, AZ
Aug 10, 2001

The description above is great, but I have one thing to add: your chances of redpointing this route are much much lower if it is in the sun or if it is exceptionally hot out. The Anarchy wall is in the shade in the morning, and you should take full advantage of that. The slopers down low are well, slopers, so watch out.

By Chris Cavallaro
Dec 8, 2008

LOOSE BLOCK on Presto!
The 'flake' after the traverse (after clipping bolt 5, you traverse left above Matriarch and use this flake) is VERY loose.

You use this thing on both routes and the right side of the flake is detached yet the left side seems solidly held to the wall. The right side is moving. I am hoping to get up there with some epoxy to reinforce, but I have never done that type of work on a route before, so if anyone has the motivation please go take a look. Otherwise, I will see what I can do.

Although, should this thing just be trundled? Like I said, it seems very solid on the left side, but there is no way of telling if it has hidden fractures.

By Jay Samuelson
From: Denver CO
May 26, 2011
rating: 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b

I replaced the fourth bolt on Presto/Maestro today. I moved the bolt about 8 inches to the right, so you might want to put a longer draw on that one. I posted more information and pictures on the Maestro page.

By Mike Humphries
From: Arvada, CO
Jun 8, 2011
rating: 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b

Double like!

Much, much thanks for replacing that bolt! Looking forward to getting on the route again.