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Escape Buttress
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Presidents Day 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a/b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VI+ British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Susan Wolfe, Tim Wolfe, George Rosenthal
Page Views: 812
Submitted By: Perin Blanchard on Nov 13, 2007
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You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (19)
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BETA PHOTO: 1 Rock Requiem 5.11c
2 Presidents Day 5.10b
3 [[10...
Located in a National Forest Fee Area MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Climb up 20 feet of easy, broken ledges and clip the first bolt of the route on the smoother area directly above the broken area. Then, using pockets and sidepulls, get past the smooth area and continue through another six bolts. There are plenty of pockets and a jug always seems to appear just when you need it. Just before the last bolt the pockets and feet get scarcer; after the last bolt the angle eases and you climb 10 feet of easy terrain to a ledge with the chains.

This is a pretty fun climb and worth doing. Even when Escape Buttress has been crowded Iíve never seen anyone on this route (or either of its two neighbors).


Location 

This route is located on a bulge about 50 feet before the west end of Escape Buttress proper and is one of three routes that you encounter on your left on the way to Escape.

This is the middle of the three routes; note that the bolts for the right-most of the routes are hard to spot. Looking at the bulge described above there is a smoother, blank-appearing area about 20 feet up from the trail. This route starts on the right of the two bolts at the bottom of the smoother area.


Protection 

7 bolts, chain anchors (shared with the route to the left).



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By Jon Bitter
From: Waco, Tx
Oct 11, 2009
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a

Watch out. A few feet right of the first bolt is the most gigantic pile of bat crap I have ever seen. It's a 4-5" tall mound that I almost took to be a handhold.

If you feel like there isn't anything to hold on to, try out the crappy looking pockets, you will find some surprising jugs and sidepulls.

By Nicholas Yaskoff
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Sep 24, 2010
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a

This route is worth climbing!

By Tim Wolfe
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Nov 28, 2012
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b

A fun route well worth doing that eventually (20 years later) might clean up with some action. It is amazing how much rock we had to peel off to get down to relatively solid rock. Rarely any line waiting to climb here and the holds probably are still sharp rather than slippery. Skip the rest you can find out right high up to get the full value of the original line.

By Kurt Howes
Feb 15, 2014

Wow Susan and Tim, I just did these two routes (10.b & 11.c) for the first time (feb '14) and thought they were completely excellent. We thought they were better than everything to the right on Escape (save maybe the 3 star 10.d). Crazy to think these wonderful routes were put up so recently. They must have cleaned up quite nicely by now because I have no complaints. Garret's route to the right was quite fun and good also. I HIGHLY recommend climbing these two on the left.