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Presidential Warfare 

YDS: 5.7+ French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 40'
Original:  YDS: 5.8- French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 14 British: VS 4c [details]
FA: ??
Page Views: 710
Submitted By: Jared R on Mar 30, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (9)
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BETA PHOTO: Presidential Warfare, just left of the bolted rout...

Description 

Climb the crack left of "The Wave" up to "The Waves'" Anchor bolts. Good Placements and fun route.

(We might not have been the first to climb this. If you know who was the first Ascensionist and it's proper name, please say so and I'll change that info. Thanks.)

Location 

2' left of "The Wave" route.
Walk off to retrieve anchor from the anchor bolts.

Protection 

Camalots up to #3.


Photos of Presidential Warfare Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Me, Jared, pulling the last couple moves on Presid...
Me, Jared, pulling the last couple moves on Presid...
Rock Climbing Photo: Me, Jared on Presidential Warfare...Notice the opp...
Me, Jared on Presidential Warfare...Notice the opp...

Comments on Presidential Warfare Add Comment
Show which comments
By Holly Killen-Vesco
From: Denver, Colorado
Aug 14, 2014
rating: 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c

Fun route that pretty much sums up climbing in the gap for me.
By kenr
Feb 18, 2016

Fun "three-dimensional" climbing. We did it on Top-Rope from the two-bolt anchor at the top of The Wave route, supplemented with a trad directional placement.

Variation: An easier but less interesting start (which keeps the line more distinct from the bolted route to the right), is to start in the wide crack on the left (west) side of the detached block/pillar just left of the bolted route The Wave.

As of February 2016, found that rock on or near this route was loose or breaking. Therefore the climber should wear a helmet, and the belayer and any other persons should stay way off to one side or the other - (not underneath the climber) - (also not anywhere out in front of the route, because falling rocks can bounce and ricochet way out away from the wall).

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