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 ADVANCED
Varnished Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Circle of Benevolence T 
Crank Queenie T 
Disco Sucks T 
Double Crux T 
East Meets West T 
Mosaic T 
Presence of Grace T 
With Malice and Forethought T 

Presence of Grace 

YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 90'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Bob Gaines, 1995
Page Views: 244
Submitted By: C Miller on Jan 1, 2002

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
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Description 

Start right of With Malice and Forethought (same as for Circle of Benevolence) and climb past a horizontal crack to access a smooth face with two bolts. The climb heads right after the second bolt and passes a fixed pin in a left-slanting seam before topping out.

Perhaps viewed as a variation to Circle of Benevolence, or that as a variant to this, the climbing is fun on good rock all within a short walk of your car. What more could you want?

Protection 

2 bolts, FP, pro to 2"


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By Bob Gaines
Apr 20, 2010
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

At the first bolt, instead of climbing straight up the slab (10+), you can also traverse right, then up (5.10-) for an easier variation to reach the second bolt. After clipping the second bolt, move back down a few feet, then traverse right and up to a left-diagonalling seam with a fixed pin (knifeblade) that provides additional protection for the crux (5.11-).

There are threaded rap slings about 20 ft. higher (90 ft. rap)

This route has some of the best rock in Indian Cove campground.
By Richard Shore
Dec 23, 2012
rating: 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c

Some powerful undercling-crimps on this one, with bad feet to boot. I had no problem with the standard .10d finish on CoB, but couldn't even get to the pin on this variation. Maybe because it was the end of the day, maybe because my tips were already blown from 3 days climbing in Indian Cove, but I'd argue that this one is solid 5.11.