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 ADVANCED
Black Rose
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
A Rose is a Rose T,TR 
Attention K-Mart Shoppers T 
Black Magic Woman S,TR 
Black Rose S,TR 
Dynamite Crack T 
Fat Hippos S 
Pink Canoe S 
Prescription T,TR 
Red Rose T 
Tip-A-Canoe T 
Yuji Feet S 

Prescription 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a R

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 40'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Tristan Higbee, 7/31/09
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 449
Submitted By: Tristan Higbee on Jul 31, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
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BETA PHOTO: The route.

Description 

Thin, crimpy, unprotected slab climbing takes you to a chockstone where you can get a piece of gear in. Just don't fall before you get there! Go up and left from there, finishing on Black Magic Woman.

For the full effect, avoid the crack/corner on the right and don't use the chimney or the Black Rose slab on the left until you get to the chockstone.

Location 

This route starts up the obvious slab just right of Black Magic Woman. There's some old graffiti down low on the left side.

Protection 

A #2 (gold) Camalot is the first piece and a I used a .5 Camalot (purple) for the second piece. Lower or rap off of Black Rose's anchors.


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By Tristan Higbee
From: Cambodia
Jul 31, 2009

For years this slab has called out to be climbed, but the large, unstable chockstones above it prevented it from being bolted. (You could continue up and over the blocks but the Black Magic Woman finish is cleaner.) I TRed the thing a couple months ago and was put off because I didn't want to add bolts to it but at the same time, there was no gear. Also, the holds were pretty friable. After cleaning off the loosest rock and holds, she was ready to go.

This thing was pretty scary. I was shaking pretty bad as I was climbing it! Definitely more mental climbing than physical. There's no pro for the first 20 feet and there are several jagged rocks at the bottom. I toproped it a couple times before leading it, making sure I knew exactly where I wanted to go. It's not the best climbing around, but it's ok. Again, the mental challenge is what makes this route.
By Christian "crisco" Burrell
From: PG, Utah
Jul 31, 2009

I belayed Tristan on this today and I was scared just watching him. I was "belaying" but it wasn't much good. Ok, so the "belay" was mostly a spot that wouldn't have been worth very much. In the picture, you can see the landing. I might have been able to push him somewhere, but I'm still not sure where. Due to the landing, this might warrant an "X" rating.
I have never seen him shake so much. even though the cleaned holds had gotten way more positive, you still have to make a few thin and tricky sequences near the top. Even on TR it is really tempting to grab the corner to the right or left.
I would recommend a few crash pads at least!
By Boissal
From: Small Lake, UT
Aug 2, 2009

Was that section quarried or did the block in there fall out on its own?
Look spooky...
By Tristan Higbee
From: Cambodia
Aug 2, 2009

It was quarried a few years ago (I think it was in 2004). The big ol' block/slab that's visible on the ground used to be standing upright right where the route goes.
By Andrew Seegmiller
From: Orem UT
Jun 24, 2010

first couple holds broke back in March sometime, fun but a little to sketchy for my liking