Prerequisite for Excellence 5.8
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| Type: | Trad, 1 pitch, 80 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.8 [details] |
| FA: | Bob Ordner, Roy Briton, Rob Robinson - 1985 |
| Submitted By: | saxfiend on Nov 18, 2006 |
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BETA PHOTO: Base of climb. Follows crack to ring anchors at to...
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Description Beautiful rock, great pro and challenging moves make this one of the best for the grade at T-Wall. Move up a short corner to a nice ledge, then follow a long left-facing corner with the occasional overhang up to ring anchors at the top.
Location Starts about 10' right of Multiple Use Area, not far down the trail from the Plastic Toys arete.
Protection Small to medium gear (cams, tricams, hexes, maybe some nuts). Bolted anchors.
Prerequisite for Excellence
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| Comments on Prerequisite for Excellence |
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By Guy H. From: Fort Collins CO Nov 18, 2006
| This is a great line and is one of the easier 5.8s on the cliff. After cruising this one, go try 'Dirt Bag' which is one of the harder 5.8s on the cliff. |
By saxfiend Administrator From: Decatur, GA Jan 16, 2007
| Ah, Dirt Bag it is. I've got that one in my sights. And you're right about Prerequisite, it's one of my favorite 5.8 leads at T-Wall. |
By 426 Mar 8, 2007
| Bottom part (above the first mini-dihedral) is a bit loose; some larger cams (3-4) can be nice for the middle section. |
By Nick Stayner From: The Magic City Mar 17, 2008
| I somehow managed to get a yellow TCU stuck near the roof traverse on this climb about a week ago. Apparently it walked itself behind a large crystal. Good luck--the cam's yours if you can get it out. |
By nickpoppel Sep 29, 2009
| A little easy for an 5.8. Passages is way better. Still a fun route with good gear. |
By BTodd Feb 25, 2012
| This route and the ones next to it are great, however, the left anchor bolt for this route is loose - the bolt spins - you can try to twist it back in, but you can tug it out with your hand easily... I don't know which organization replaces anchors at t-wall, but we should let them know, apparently they have been replacing a bunch lately... |
By ChillFancy From: Chattanooga, TN Jun 17, 2012
| Climbed this today and anchors felt tight to hand inspection. The way these anchors are on top of the climb leads to some pretty bad rope drag for toprope. |
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