Beautiful rock, great pro and challenging moves make this one of the best for the grade at T-Wall. Move up a short corner to a nice ledge, then follow a long left-facing corner with the occasional overhang up to ring anchors at the top.
Starts about 10' right of Multiple Use Area, not far down the trail from the Plastic Toys arete.
Small to medium gear (cams, tricams, hexes, maybe some nuts). Bolted anchors.
Prerequisite for Excellence
BETA PHOTO: From the bottom of the climb.
|By Guy H.|
From: Fort Collins CO
Nov 18, 2006
This is a great line and is one of the easier 5.8s on the cliff. After cruising this one, go try 'Dirt Bag' which is one of the harder 5.8s on the cliff.
From: Decatur, GA
Jan 16, 2007
Ah, Dirt Bag it is. I've got that one in my sights. And you're right about Prerequisite, it's one of my favorite 5.8 leads at T-Wall.
Mar 8, 2007
Bottom part (above the first mini-dihedral) is a bit loose; some larger cams (3-4) can be nice for the middle section.
|By Nick Stayner|
From: The Magic City
Mar 17, 2008
I somehow managed to get a yellow TCU stuck near the roof traverse on this climb about a week ago. Apparently it walked itself behind a large crystal. Good luck--the cam's yours if you can get it out.
Sep 29, 2009
A little easy for an 5.8. Passages is way better. Still a fun route with good gear.
Feb 25, 2012
This route and the ones next to it are great, however, the left anchor bolt for this route is loose - the bolt spins - you can try to twist it back in, but you can tug it out with your hand easily...
I don't know which organization replaces anchors at t-wall, but we should let them know, apparently they have been replacing a bunch lately...
From: Chattanooga, TN
Jun 17, 2012
Climbed this today and anchors felt tight to hand inspection. The way these anchors are on top of the climb leads to some pretty bad rope drag for toprope.
From: Atlanta, GA
Mar 20, 2014
To whomever extended the bolt anchors with chains, thank you! The anchors are bomber. (March 2014)