Prequel to the Sequel
||Trad, 1 pitch, 110'
|Original: || YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b PG13 [details]|
|FA: ||Matt Reeser & Dave Montgomery, 1-9-13|
|New Route: ||Yes|
|Page Views: ||1,146|
|Submitted By: ||Monty on Jan 9, 2013|
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Matt cruxin' on the FA.
It's so cool to think that this route has been sitting in plain sight, just waiting for somebody motivated enough to claim it. This is a beautiful pitch that demands focus until the very end.
Prequel to the Sequel is the direct start to the 2nd pitch of the Edge of Fright
but also has its own steep headwall finish. Directly above the bolted anchor, a seam starts 15 feet up. Slab and face climb this seam past a pin (11+ PG-13) with fidely gear to a jug rest. Calm your head, then climb a tips crack that dead ends at a steep wall. Crimp and face climb the seam through the steep wall (crux), with a hard to place nut that eventually gives way to the twin cracks of Edge of Fright
. Follow the "Edge" for 30 feet until it is possible to switch to the left crack and power out the steep headwall finale (11+).
A lone pin (that hasn't been whipped on) and lots of small gear, nothing bigger than a #0.5 Camalot.... Some of the gear can be very tricky to find, but every piece is bomber.
Descend using the fixed nut anchor on top of Mississippi Half-Step
. A 70m rope is required.
Stepping left to the final headwall.
Jan 9, 2013
rating: 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b PG13
Hard, mentally and physically. The gear on this route is safe, you just need to know where it is. Slab to hard face to overhanging crack, fantastic!