|Rico Suave Buttress
Start on the block just right of the arete. Climb up on left side of the arete till about the 4th or 5th bolts, then swing onto the right side and layback the sloping arete. The layback section is excellent, balancy fun. Easy climbing after this brings you to the anchors
Arete just left of Pockets of Resistance.
8 bolt, 2 bolt anchor. First bolt is missing so stick clip the second way high up. I would guess this route would see a lot more action if the missing lower bolt were replaced.
|Comments on Preparation H
|By Darren in Vegas|
From: Las Vegas, NV
Sep 13, 2010
This route never had a bolt in the first hole. The first ascent was poached before it went in. I recommend a 0.75 camalot to go in the horizontal before the true first bolt. Or just stick clip.
I believe the first ascent was Harrison Dekker, and I think it was bolted by Rick Thompson.
Sep 21, 2011
This thing must have the best anchor cleaning station in the Gorge. Take a seat on a two foot tall block facing the anchor while you thread your rope.
|By Sam Stephens|
Aug 19, 2013
Great rock, fun movement, good crux. Blows pockets out of the water for sure. If you're there and it's not raining, do this route.