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 ADVANCED
Rico Suave Buttress
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Good Old Days, The 
Grit and Bear It 
Not on the First Date 
Nude Brute 
Out of the Bag 
Pockets of Resistance 
Preparation H 
Rico Sauve 
Sand in My Crack (Cuddle Monkey) 
Second Thoughts 
Totally Tammy 

Preparation H 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 90'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Bolted by Rick Thompson, FA Harrison Decker
Page Views: 1,032
Submitted By: TravisMelin on Sep 11, 2010
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Description 

Start on the block just right of the arete. Climb up on left side of the arete till about the 4th or 5th bolts, then swing onto the right side and layback the sloping arete. The layback section is excellent, balancy fun. Easy climbing after this brings you to the anchors


Location 

Arete just left of Pockets of Resistance.


Protection 

8 bolt, 2 bolt anchor. First bolt is missing so stick clip the second way high up. I would guess this route would see a lot more action if the missing lower bolt were replaced.



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By Darren in Vegas
From: Las Vegas, NV
Sep 13, 2010

This route never had a bolt in the first hole. The first ascent was poached before it went in. I recommend a 0.75 camalot to go in the horizontal before the true first bolt. Or just stick clip.
I believe the first ascent was Harrison Dekker, and I think it was bolted by Rick Thompson.

By ----
Sep 21, 2011

This thing must have the best anchor cleaning station in the Gorge. Take a seat on a two foot tall block facing the anchor while you thread your rope.

By Sam Stephens
Aug 19, 2013

Great rock, fun movement, good crux. Blows pockets out of the water for sure. If you're there and it's not raining, do this route.