Login with Facebook
Rico Suave Buttress
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Good Old Days, The T 
Grit and Bear It S 
Not on the First Date S 
Nude Brute S 
Out of the Bag S 
Pockets of Resistance S 
Preparation H S 
Rico Sauve S 
Sand in My Crack (Cuddle Monkey) T 
Second Thoughts T 
Totally Tammy S 

Preparation H 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

Type:  Sport, 90'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Bolted by Rick Thompson, FA Harrison Decker
Page Views: 1,481
Submitted By: TravisMelin on Sep 11, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (11)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
Preparation H - photo by matt


Start on the block just right of the arete. Climb up on left side of the arete till about the 4th or 5th bolts, then swing onto the right side and layback the sloping arete. The layback section is excellent, balancy fun. Easy climbing after this brings you to the anchors


Arete just left of Pockets of Resistance.


9 bolt, 2 bolt anchor.

Photos of Preparation H Slideshow Add Photo
Preparation H (mid Crux)- photo by matt
Preparation H (mid Crux)- photo by matt

Comments on Preparation H Add Comment
Show which comments
By Darren in Vegas
From: Las Vegas, NV
Sep 13, 2010

This route never had a bolt in the first hole. The first ascent was poached before it went in. I recommend a 0.75 camalot to go in the horizontal before the true first bolt. Or just stick clip.
I believe the first ascent was Harrison Dekker, and I think it was bolted by Rick Thompson.
By ----
Sep 21, 2011

This thing must have the best anchor cleaning station in the Gorge. Take a seat on a two foot tall block facing the anchor while you thread your rope.
By Sam Stephens
Aug 19, 2013

Great rock, fun movement, good crux. Blows pockets out of the water for sure. If you're there and it's not raining, do this route.
By nmwilliams1989
From: summersville, wv
Jun 25, 2014

The route has been re-bolted and there now is a lower first bolt
Beyond the Guidebook:
The Definitive Climbing Resource
Inspiration & Motivation
to Fuel Your Run
Next Generation Mountain
Bike Trail Maps
Backcountry, Sidecountry
and Secret Stashes
Better Data. Better Tools.
Better Hikes!