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Hemingway Buttress (East Face Left)
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White Lightning T 

Prepackaged 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: John McGowen, Rich Smith & Herb Laegar, February 1977
Page Views: 5,623
Submitted By: Bo Johnston on Nov 12, 2003

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (120)
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Brandon on Prepackaged.

Description 

This excellent route climbs the rightward diagonaling hand crack just to the right of Feltoneon Physics. Bring your guns for this sustained pitch of quality stone and great gear placement. Although the crux may be in the lower portion of the route, the ensuing pump will make the finish a challenge as well. Descend via standard rap anchors abeam White Lightning. Enjoy!

Protection 

Standard J-Tree trad rack up to 2.5".


Photos of Prepackaged Slideshow Add Photo
Prepackaged <br />
Prepackaged
Start of Prepackaged, demonstrating how the crack eats gear.
Start of Prepackaged, demonstrating how the crack ...
"Prepackaged". <br />Photo by Blitzo.
"Prepackaged".
Photo by Blitzo.

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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Oct 24, 2010
By Andy Laakmann
Site Landlord
From: Bend, OR
Feb 13, 2006
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Classic! Technical finger locks and subtle footwork get you through the bottom section with bomber small wires for pro. A short, enjoyable section of hand jams (#0.75-#1 Camalot) finishes the main portion of the climb. Some easy wandering gets you to the top. My favorite on this wall.
By Chris Owen
Administrator
From: La Crescenta and Big Bear Lake
Mar 18, 2006
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

I seem to remember the start as being pretty tough. Also, using holds on the face to the left of the crack (Just above where the climber is) simplifies the crux immensely, or is that cheating?
By Dr. Evil
From: Boulder, CO
May 11, 2006
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

This route is well protected and incredibly fun.
By Edward Jenner
Nov 1, 2006
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Good route to do even if not comfortable at 10's - safe and relatively easy.
By Will S
From: Joshua Tree
Dec 27, 2006
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Very fun route, protects well, start is a little funky/balancy until you can get into the fingercrack. Climbed this once before and thought the fingerlocks were too small for my digits...but I must have been blind because I found perfectly good ones the last time I was on it.
By susan peplow
From: Joshua Tree
Feb 23, 2007
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Completely hand/finger size dependent. Ladies fingers makes the route go closer to 5.9. If you've got a large 3.0/3.5" cam you can plug that dog in down low while standing on the block before starting into the finger crack. It's a bomber placement.
By Kayte Knower
Mar 27, 2007
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Why must you downgrade? Can't it just be a fantastic route? I hear so many people bitch about the bad attitude of sport climbers at Rifle, yet here it is in the heart of trad climbing. Leave the grades alone. One of my favorite routes ever. I couldn't decide though...do you crawl through the hole at the top? How cool is J-tree?
By caughtinside
From: Oakland CA
Mar 30, 2007

Great climbing with great gear. Fun jams! Nearly brained my belay when I got butterfingered with my orange alien. I unclipped it from my rack, found I was only holding a biner, and looked down to see it just miss his melon. He was checking out the girls though, didn't even notice. I'd say this one is totally fair at .10a, although it is easier than other .10as I've been on in Josh like Tax Man or Exorcist.
By Ryan Kelly
From: work.
Sep 3, 2008

I don't know if I'd put Exorcist in with Taxman and Prepackaged. Exorcist is super cruiser, probably more like 5.9-
By Russ Walling
From: www.FishProducts.com
Sep 3, 2008
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

For me (a real man with large fingers) Taxman is far harder than either the Prepackaged (5.8+) or Exocist (5.9)

All three are pretty darn good and should be on everyones "must do" list for the grade.
By Adam Stackhouse
Administrator
Sep 3, 2008

Russ, with an emphasis on "real man," or "large fingers?"
By Ryan Kelly
From: work.
Sep 6, 2008

Agreed on Prepackaged and Taxman, but Caughtinside didn't fall off of either of those, so I'm not as concerned with downgrading those two.
By Chris Owen
Administrator
From: La Crescenta and Big Bear Lake
Jun 15, 2009
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Here's my experience of the three previously compared climbs, bearing in mind that climbs are graded for on-sight no beta ascents (all in my case from the mid 80's):

1) Prepackage, fell at the crux, got seduced by the crack and ignored the face holds to the left, did not make that mistake on the second try.
2) Taxman felt easier than Prepackaged, just one tricky move close to the start.
3) Exorcist, easier than both the above with the crux supposedly being a bolt-protected face move above the crack, so hard to compare.

PS I've got fairly thin fingers.
By Aerili
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Jan 10, 2010
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Shouldn't need anything over a #1 except possibly a #2 for your anchor.
By Cory
From: Boise, ID
Oct 24, 2010
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Awesome route! Getting established in the crack at the start was tricky, but then it was just fun finger locks with good features for feet the rest of the way up. There were lots of great stances for placing pro.