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Middle Earth
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Bobbin' for Hobbits S 
Breeze, The S 
Bump, The S 
Centennial S 
Delirious S 
Earth Angel S 
Elfin Warrior S 
Fireball S 
Grand Opening S 
Hobbit In A Blender S 
Hobbitual Offender S 
Infectious S 
Irresistible S 
Just a Fantasy T 
Middle Earth S 
Planet Eater, The S 
Premonition S 
Pull Me Up S 
Red Hot S 
S'Blended S 
Silmarillion S 
War Of The Worlds S 
You Betchy It's Sketchy S 

Premonition 

YDS: 5.12- French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.12- French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Scott Ayers, Mark Colby & David Luhen (1992)
Page Views: 972
Submitted By: RyanJohnson on Sep 15, 2013

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (5)
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BETA PHOTO: Premonition

Description 

Bring your bag of tricks and smearing shoes for this one cause every ten feet the style changes but the footholds stay the same. Fun stemming in an alcove leads to an undercling traverse, followed by a few moves of desperate lay-backing, then a few hard crimpy moves leads to a bit o'jug hauling and a tricky roof encounter.

Location 

Premonition is located in the middle cluster of routes at Middle Earth. Right of The Planet Eater and before the long slab routes at the right end of the wall. Look for a series of right facing shallow blocks leading to a short roof.

Though the climbing up to it is 5.easy, the first bolt is a good 20 feet off the deck.

Protection 

Bolts, Chains.


Photos of Premonition Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Steve Brown at the start of Premonition.
Steve Brown at the start of Premonition.
Rock Climbing Photo: A sea of smears.  The route is near vertical, stee...
A sea of smears. The route is near vertical, stee...

Comments on Premonition Add Comment
Show which comments
By Hendrixson
Administrator
From: Tucson, AZ
Apr 13, 2014
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

This climb is phenomenal! Very much recommended for those who enjoy delicate, technical lines such as War Of The Worlds and The Planet Eater. All three lines are classic and comprise what I refer to as the "Lord Of The Rubber" trilogy.

I suspect the first bolt is so high as to not intrude on Just a Fantasy. A 0.4 C4 may protect some of the runout while adding rope drag.

I also believe their is a chipped hold on this route.

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