Bring your bag of tricks and smearing shoes for this one cause every ten feet the style changes but the footholds stay the same. Fun stemming in an alcove leads to an undercling traverse, followed by a few moves of desperate lay-backing, then a few hard crimpy moves leads to a bit o'jug hauling and a tricky roof encounter.
Premonition is located in the middle cluster of routes at Middle Earth. Right of The Planet Eater and before the long slab routes at the right end of the wall. Look for a series of right facing shallow blocks leading to a short roof.
Though the climbing up to it is 5.easy, the first bolt is a good 20 feet off the deck.
From: Tucson, AZ
Apr 13, 2014
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
This climb is phenomenal! Very much recommended for those who enjoy delicate, technical lines such as War Of The Worlds and The Planet Eater. All three lines are classic and comprise what I refer to as the "Lord Of The Rubber" trilogy.
I suspect the first bolt is so high as to not intrude on Just a Fantasy. A 0.4 C4 may protect some of the runout while adding rope drag.