|Type:||Trad, 3 pitches, 520', Grade II|
|Consensus:||YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b [details]|
|FA:||Fred Beckey, Brian Goechel. 1968|
|Submitted By:||outdooreric on Apr 1, 2007|
|Comments on Premier Route 5.10c or 5.8 A0||Add Comment|
|Show which comments —
By Bryan G
Aug 26, 2011
|You can now climb a 4th pitch and still rappel. Either head up and right, past a couple bolts to a corner (original finish). Or head up and left past bolts and a roof to a crack on the face. Both options are fairly moderate and end at the same bolted rap anchor.|
By jediah porter
Apr 23, 2012
I've done the Premier Route a bunch of times now, and have a couple things to add to the great description above:
-I agree, the route as described above is about 2 stars. Add the final pitch described by the previous commenter, and do a variation to pitch 2 and it gets better. As the "easiest" multi-pitch climb in the Portal, I think it's pretty good.
-Pitch 2 variation: If you do a full 60m pitch 1 and belay at the comfy ledge, the crack systems fork above you (you can also walk off left...). The above description mentions the right fork. I've done it both ways, and enjoy the left fork more. Climb a hand crack, then squirm through a bush (isn't that a common theme in the Portal?) to a sandy ledge. Belay here, or better yet, head straight on up the above hand crack as it arcs left to a bolted belay. From the bolted belay face climb on knobs back right to the crest of the buttress and join the above described route just below the bolt ladder.
-Descent options: "Bishop Area Rock Climbs" indicates 3 options:
1- Rappel the route with two ropes. Actually, you rappel pitches 4 and 3, and then drop skier's right into the gully alongside the formation. Then walk a little ways to your pack. Either carry descent shoes, or get climbing shoes filled with sand.
2- Do a "30m" rappel skiers right from the final bolted belay. Totally doable, but it's some real-deal down-climbing in that gully.
3- Top it out, and walk off in the gully between Premier and El Segundo Buttresses. Enjoyable enough, and you only have to carry one rope. But some of the climbing to the top is totally heinous.
Yesterday we unearthed a 4th option. You'll need descent shoes, but only one rope. And there's no mandatory deathly downclimbing. Some route-finding is required, for sure. From the final bolted belay, do another pitch. Wander your way up chimneys and brush, but it's not as bad as that sounds. Un-rope on sandy ledges and wander up a little bit more. At this point the crest of the Buttress is rather broken. Just before the crest again smooths out, go up and over, towards El Segundo Buttress. Scramble straight down from the base of the smooth prow to a sling-and-ring rap anchor on a thread. One 30m rappel gets you to sandy walking back around to the base. Or, better yet and as we did, go across the gully and climb the Beckey Route on El Segundo Buttress. Top that one out, and you score 11 pitches of pretty sweet moderate climbing.
From: Northern NM
May 2, 2012
|Great route info guys. When we did Premier 28 years ago the headwall hangers were homemade aluminium angles. Crafty fellow, that Mr. Becky. If memory serves 10c seemed about right.|
By Richard Shore
May 14, 2012
A fun outing and probably the "easiest" multipitch route at the Portal. P1 finger crack is a treat and really fun for 5.6. The P3 bolt ladder looked really hard for 5.10c; I felt the holds at the start of the bulge and said screw this, I'm pulling through in the interest of time. It seemed to wander right and left of the bolts quite a bit, and the bolt ladder is reachy even if pulling through (I'm 6'3" and still thought it was a stretch!).
Without much effort, we found the rap slings per Jediah's recommendation (4th option) above. This drops you right near the toe of El Segundo Buttress and allows for some cool enchainments. Link it up with the Beckey Route 5.9 on ESB for a Grade IV day (~11 pitches).
PS - this is a minimum of 5 pitches (to the top), not the 3 listed in the description. Fred's climbs never ended at a rap station 2/3rds of the way up a wall, juss sayin'...