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The Left Bunker
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Big Empty, The S 
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Premarital Drilling 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch
Original:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Jared Jenkins
Page Views: 1,636
Submitted By: Sam Daley on Aug 5, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (41)
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This was my first lead at Foster Falls. Don't fal...

Description 

Start on the large boulders bellow the left face in the left bunker. The first move is the crux. Pull the roof to reach easy face climbing followed by a solid flake.

Location 

Left Bunker

Protection 

Four bolts, ring anchors.


Photos of Premarital Drilling Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Lead Climb Flash
Lead Climb Flash
Rock Climbing Photo: Climbing Premarital Drilling.  Great name, fun rou...
Climbing Premarital Drilling. Great name, fun rou...
Rock Climbing Photo: MUST make first and second clips or a fall will mo...
MUST make first and second clips or a fall will mo...

Comments on Premarital Drilling Add Comment
Show which comments
By Demyanek
From: Fort Collins, CO
Aug 15, 2011
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Fun route, especially when you get stuck in the rain in the darkie cave and aren't at the 5.12+ level haha There is no way this is a 5.10b though, apart from the bouldery start, its an easy 5.9. I'd suggest stick-clipping the first bolt
By Nick Evans
Feb 15, 2012

They added another bolt in line with the flake. No need to reach way right to clip anymore. Kinda takes the fun out of it for me.
By Luke R 84
Jul 7, 2015

I climbed this during the downpour this past weekend (4th of July) and it felt like the few lower blocks were loose. They've always sounded hollow, but I feel like I saw some hairline cracks, possible movement, especially on the second "loaf" up. Yet another reason to stick clip that first bolt!

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