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Fern Point - Party Buttress
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Pocket Pussy S 
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Premarital Bliss 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Dave Sippel, Mark Van Cura 1985
Page Views: 2,507
Submitted By: Jeremy Steck on Oct 8, 2007  with updates from Jordan K

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (33)
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BETA PHOTO: Mike on Premarital Bliss, 5.9+.

Description 

Climb the cracks in the left facing corner until you are about level with the Exoduster shuts 10 Ft. to the left(5.8). Continue up and right over some easy but interestingly featured rock to gain a right facing corner. Follow the corner to the roof and traverse right about 10 Ft. to the shuts. On rainy days, the first half of this climb stays dry and you can traverse left to the shuts on Exoduster.

Most people traverse up and right to finish on the anchors of Through the Never. This traverse is rumored to be heady, and has been the site of some dramatic falls.

Location 

Start in the corner just to the right of Exoduster.

Protection 

All sizes of gear < 3". Bolted anchor.


Photos of Premarital Bliss Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Hutch is done with Premarital Bliss, Endless Wall
Hutch is done with Premarital Bliss, Endless Wall

Comments on Premarital Bliss Add Comment
Show which comments
By Jordan K
From: Ohio
Apr 16, 2015
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

It was pretty rainy (almost all other routes at this wall were drenched), but both top and bottom of this route were dry. There was one wet spot in the traverse under the first roof due to seepage, but not actually problematic at all and the entire top section was bone dry.
By andy patterson
Administrator
From: Carpinteria, CA
Oct 22, 2015

I climbed this the day after I got engaged. I heard a story from some locals that one of the first ascentionists got married after establishing this line, and never climbed again.

Is it true? Anyone?

Well, I still climb...
By Will B
Mar 27, 2016

My partner fell trying to clip the chains on Through The Never and took a 25-30 foot swinging whipper into the bottom of the upper corner system. Not a catastrophic fall, but he came down pretty beat up and it ended our trip.

It's tough to place gear in that upper horizontal, and the further you traverse towards the chains the worse your feet get. It's all there and no harder than 10a/b, but make sure you're happy with your gear before launching into that final stretch. Good route otherwise!
By Jeff McLeod
Apr 5, 2016
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b

I wimped out and did the final traverse with my anchor sling ready to clip the chains. The holds are slopey, it is overhung, no good rest before it, and the feet aren't good either. Placing gear here would be super pumpy. I thought this little section was harder than many of the 10b routes I've done in the area. Definitely harder than any sequence on Party in My Mind, for example. Gotta start hangboarding again...

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