|Type:||Trad, 1 pitch, 80'|
|Original:||YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]|
|FA:||Dave Sippel, Mark Van Cura 1985|
|Submitted By:||Jeremy Steck on Oct 8, 2007 with updates from Jordan K|
|Comments on Premarital Bliss||Add Comment|
|Show which comments —
By Jordan K
Apr 16, 2015
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
|It was pretty rainy (almost all other routes at this wall were drenched), but both top and bottom of this route were dry. There was one wet spot in the traverse under the first roof due to seepage, but not actually problematic at all and the entire top section was bone dry.|
By andy patterson
From: Carpinteria, CA
Oct 22, 2015
I climbed this the day after I got engaged. I heard a story from some locals that one of the first ascentionists got married after establishing this line, and never climbed again.
Is it true? Anyone?
Well, I still climb...
By Will B
Mar 27, 2016
My partner fell trying to clip the chains on Through The Never and took a 25-30 foot swinging whipper into the bottom of the upper corner system. Not a catastrophic fall, but he came down pretty beat up and it ended our trip.
It's tough to place gear in that upper horizontal, and the further you traverse towards the chains the worse your feet get. It's all there and no harder than 10a/b, but make sure you're happy with your gear before launching into that final stretch. Good route otherwise!
By Jeff McLeod
Apr 5, 2016
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
|I wimped out and did the final traverse with my anchor sling ready to clip the chains. The holds are slopey, it is overhung, no good rest before it, and the feet aren't good either. Placing gear here would be super pumpy. I thought this little section was harder than many of the 10b routes I've done in the area. Definitely harder than any sequence on Party in My Mind, for example. Gotta start hangboarding again...|