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Fern Point - Party Buttress
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Harbinger Scarab S 
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Party All the Time T 
Party in My Mind T 
Party Till Yer Blind T 
Pocket Pussy S 
Premarital Bliss T 
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Techman S 

Premarital Bliss 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Dave Sippel, Mark Van Cura 1985
Page Views: 2,335
Submitted By: Jeremy Steck on Oct 8, 2007  with updates from Jordan K

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BETA PHOTO: Mike on Premarital Bliss, 5.9+.

Description 

Climb the cracks in the left facing corner until you are about level with the Exoduster shuts 10 Ft. to the left(5.8). Continue up and right over some easy but interestingly featured rock to gain a right facing corner. Follow the corner to the roof and traverse right about 10 Ft. to the shuts. On rainy days, the first half of this climb stays dry and you can traverse left to the shuts on Exoduster.

Most people traverse up and right to finish on the anchors of Through the Never. This traverse is rumored to be heady, and has been the site of some dramatic falls.

Location 

Start in the corner just to the right of Exoduster.

Protection 

All sizes of gear < 3". Bolted anchor.


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Hutch is done with Premarital Bliss, Endless Wall
Hutch is done with Premarital Bliss, Endless Wall

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By Jordan K
From: Ohio
Apr 16, 2015
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

It was pretty rainy (almost all other routes at this wall were drenched), but both top and bottom of this route were dry. There was one wet spot in the traverse under the first roof due to seepage, but not actually problematic at all and the entire top section was bone dry.
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