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prefered seconding technique for rope solo
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By photocodo
From Hendersonville, NC
Jan 4, 2014
The "crack"

So I just got my shiny new Silent Partner in the mail. I plan on mainly using this for solo aid but I would like to use if for some multi-pitch trad as well. I understand the process for cleaning a solo aid pitch is the same as cleaning an aid pitch with a partner. Just rapel down, jug and clean the lead line. This technique is definitely possible for climbing trad but if I dont want to lug my ascenders and aiders up with me what are my other options.

In my research it looks like the two most common ways are
1. rapel and jug the lead line (as you would on an aid pitch)
2. rapel and re-climb the pitch, cleaning as you go

The second option seems best to me however climbing with a silent partner requires the free end of the rope to either be anchored or weighted so the SP feeds properly. The issue I see with this is once I clean the pitch I still have one end of the rope anchored or weighted that I have to get back up to me.

What are some solutions to this problem? are you guys using a different solo belay device to clean than you are to lead? If so which one? Maybe I am over looking something but I havent been able to find this explained very well. Maybe the best option is to just lug the ascenders and aiders up with me and go that route.


Photocodo


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By KevinD
From Scottsdale, AZ
Jan 4, 2014

I find it easiest to use a minitraxion when seconding with occasional backup knots(just enough to not deck). The other option is to use the silent partner but you will have to manually feed the rope through from good stances.


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By photocodo
From Hendersonville, NC
Jan 4, 2014
The "crack"

Does the minitraxion (or any progress capture pulley with teeth) do any damage to your rope when you fall on it? I know teeth are bad for leading because the force is much greater on the rope because of the fall whereas in a toprope situation you are basically just weighting the rope, not falling on it (as long as there isnt any slack in the system). I just want to make sure that Im not going to eff up my rope by using something with teeth.


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By ERolls
From Custer, SD
Jan 4, 2014
Devils Tower Summit

Hey Photo,
Soloing = extra gear or extra risk without it.
Toothed devices are fine for climbing TR but be vigilent in eliminating slack.


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By Mark Byers
Jan 4, 2014
Profile Pic

I rap off using a Grigri, cleaning while rapping unless it's too overhanging, then just toprope it using the Grigri, tying backup knots every so often, of course. :-)


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By David Coley
From UK
Jan 5, 2014

I rap and clean most pieces on the way down, leaving those that are needed if the route isn't in a straight line. Then I clean the anchor and climb back up belayed by a mini-traxion.

The climb back up is my favourite part of rope-soloing. You get to climb in a continuous flow with no gear to remove, just like real soloing but without the death potential.

With roped-soloing I also like the way you get to experience the climb from both a leader's point of view (stress and gear) and the second's (moves and views).


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By Ian Cavanaugh
Feb 5, 2014

if you are on a single pitch and you don't want to go back up but can rappel with a single rope try this. Clean the anchor and set up for a single rope rappel. By that I mean tie a figure 8 on a bite, clip a biner through the bite and clip that to the other end of the rope ( the side of the rope w/o the knot. the side you will rappel on). set up to rappel on your Grigri. clean on your way down. when you reach the ground pull the side of the rope that you didn't rappel on. now you are on the ground, cleaned your anchor and the route, go to the next route, repeat. If you are on a multi, get out the jugs or mini.


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