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Winter Wall
Routes Sorted
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A Drilling Experience S 
Barnburner T 
Barney Rubble, aka Birch Tree Crack T 
Blank Man S 
Chinese Freedom S 
Cooler Than Ice S 
Cooler Than Paradigm S 
Do The Right Thing S 
Foreign Affairs S 
Go Between, The S 
Insectaphobe S 
Itch, The S 
Jam and Jelly T 
Jump Start S 
Jump to Something Good S 
Kelly's Arete S 
Last Dance of a Fat Man S 
Light My Fire S 
Living All Over Me S 
Longing for Miss Adonis S 
Meet the Feebles S 
Mississippi Burning S 
New Kids on the Rock S 
NSP S 
Orange Marmalade S 
Paradigm Shift S 
Paul's Boutique S 
Preemptive Strike S 
Pretty in Pink T,S 
PTC (Present Time Consciousness) S 
Relentless T,TR 
Right Touch S 
Rock Pigs S 
Skooter Trash S 
Soft Touch S 
Spy Friction S 
Squeeze Play S 
Start of Something Good S 
Super High Tech Jetfighter S 
Toxic Art T,S 
Vias, aka Godzilla S 
Unsorted Routes:

Preemptive Strike 

YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12a/b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Mike Dahlberg
Page Views: 2,784
Submitted By: Chris treggE on May 18, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (32)
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More crux

Description 

A beautiful, overhanging, and intimidating climb on good rock. It looks very long from the ground, and while you're on it that impression is confirmed. The first third is not too bad, sort of warming up for the bouldery crux about 20 feet up. There are two ways to pull the crux; don't pick wrong or it's about 2 letter grades harder. Then it's a scramble to a half-decent rest in the big hole before sprinting to the finishing holds while you still have juice. Really, really fun route.


  • RCM&W #28, p. 121

Or, just left of Barney Rubble on this shot. Thanks Kris.

mountainproject.com/v/minnesot...

Protection 

Bolts. Please use your own gear for top rope. Please bring an extra biner and if the ones up top look bad or don't easily clip or shut, please replace it. It's good karma.


Photos of Preemptive Strike Slideshow Add Photo
Hang on till the end.
Hang on till the end.
route heads over the roof up the crack/seam system. the chains are at the very top, making preemptive one of the longest routes at red wing.
route heads over the roof up the crack/seam system...
Starting the crux moves.
Starting the crux moves.
Kris Gorny on another casual ascent of Preemptive Strike.  The beta in photos.
Kris Gorny on another casual ascent of Preemptive ...
Got the right-hand pocket, home free.
Got the right-hand pocket, home free.
Holds aren't that great through here.
Holds aren't that great through here.
start.
start.
Getting into the business.
Getting into the business.
Crux
Crux
good left hand to a . . .
good left hand to a . . .
good right hand.  Feet are dicey through here.
good right hand. Feet are dicey through here.
Good holds but pumpy.
Good holds but pumpy.
Good underclings, but greasy.  Shake out if you can, the real business is next.
Good underclings, but greasy. Shake out if you ca...
Watching Kris doesn't help, he makes it look easy.
Watching Kris doesn't help, he makes it look easy.

Comments on Preemptive Strike Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Oct 2, 2012
By Adam Therneau
Nov 15, 2006
rating: 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a

Fantastic route, only marred by some chossy rock. Very technical, with an incredible, exposed position.
By Travis Hibbard
Sep 16, 2007

Any beta on this route? Is it enduro or techy? worth being my next 12 project at the bluff?
By Chris treggE
Administrator
From: Madison, WI
Sep 17, 2007

Hey Travis. Defintely a good one to work on, as long as you have already climbed Living All Over Me, Work Ethic, Talking With God, and Fallout. I liked it as much as Start of Something Good, Arachnid Tendencies, Kelly's Arete, and Soft Touch. Actually, Soft Touch is kind of a one move wonder, so skip that one, although it's pretty fun. I never got a chance to work Mississippi Burning before moving out of state, so can't comment on that one.

I would say more enduro than techy but there are a couple technical balancy moves, depending how you do it.

The beta for Preemptive Strike is: drumroll: climb fast.

Only partially kidding. Adam and others say this route is 12a/b. I think the guidebook pegs it at 12c. I'm bad a rating stuff, but I thought it was hard. I guess comparing it to Living All Over Me, it's easier but longer. I got pretty pumped at the top. If you want actual beta, I will tell you there are 2 ways to do the crux about 20 feet up. You can trend left and go up a seam and then pull back right into the line of bolts, which is how most people do it. You can also ignore that seam and make it a lot harder on yourself going straight up the bulge. The big hole at the top is sandy, and it's said you can get a knee bar in there. I never could, so just shake out and move on. Go RIGHT after the huge hole, not left or straight up. Climb fast.
By Travis Hibbard
Sep 17, 2007

Thanks for the beta Chris, I've done all of those but Living all over me which i've been trying. So I was looking to add another route to the list and this is sounding like a good choice. Thanks again for your help
By Chris treggE
Administrator
From: Madison, WI
Sep 17, 2007

You bet, good luck. Great time of year to send. When I was on it, it was July and awful. If you ever come to Madison PM me and we can hit Governor Dodge or the Lake if I'm not working.
By Darin Limvere
Oct 25, 2007
rating: 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a

I think the knee bar only works if you have really long legs. For all those with freak show legs, it's a full no hands rest...
By Kris Gorny
Administrator
Oct 25, 2007
rating: 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a

I could never get the knee bar just right. Skipping it may be contrived but makes for a better route and offers a possibility of pumping out and an impressive fall from the shuts IMHO.
By ferrells
Oct 25, 2007
rating: 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a

A great climb that somehow finds the best position on the winter wall: a soaring shield on good holds very near the highest point of the entire face. At that point, you seem high above your last bolt, and after a couple of thin holds, you get giant jugs to clip the anchors. Next time you're up there, take a second to look around and appreciate your position.
Starts and middles on fun sections that don't check in harder than v4, though you can get a pump. 12a/b
By Joel Andersen
May 31, 2011

The chalked-up sidepull between the pocket and the bolt in Randy's "start" photo broke off. It left a new sidepull in its place, but have a spotter be watchful while you're using the new one, as it will almost undoubtedly break off after enough use. The change doesn't affect the grade.
By ChrisFrayer
From: Platteville, Wi
Oct 30, 2011
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

One of the better 12-'s on the wall. Very short lived crux (very greasy, slippery underclings) with 5.11- climbing before and after. No need for a knee bar at the top, as long as your comfortable with jugs on a 5 degree overhang.
By Ted Kryzer
From: Rochester, MN
Oct 2, 2012
rating: 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a

The side pull flake at the end of the cux section broke this last weekend. Doesn't seem to affect the rating.