|107 page views|
ONLY THE FIRST PITCH IS NEW, but it makes a nice link-up and a plumb line up the wall.
P1 - 35m - start just left of Sea Biscuit and 15' left of the largest LFD. Start in an awkward bulge (crux) and head straight up toward a 12" wide x 8' tall, rectangular, parallel-sided inset. Just under it, move right along an easy undercling. Aim toward and into the large corner under the large roof (shrubs and loose rock were mostly cleaned out). A thin, sharp plate/edge is laminated to the right wall here. Turn the roof directly up the crack/corner at 5.7+ and proceed up the pleasant easier hand crack to the flat ledge and set a belay.
P2 - 35m - traverse straight left. A fine couple moves with big exposure, 5.7+ (like the 4th pitch of Kor's Flake on Sundance)! Teach out left and gain the delightful 3-star crack of upper Sea Biscuit. Take it to a 2 bolt anchor (visible from the ground).
P3 - 20m - climb Funky Gold Patina a 4 bolt sport pitch (.10b we thought).
P4 - 40m - walk a few meters to the left and continue up Funky Gold Patina in a thin crack above and deep inset, on the west-facing wall. Stem up and finger jam the thin, tenuous crack and seam to the summit, 5.10. Pop around the left/north side of the summit block, and find the existing summit rap anchors. 2 each x 30m fixed raps drops you at your pack and lunch.
This is a nice direct link-up straight up the wall. Thanks to all the other folks that pioneered all the hard climbing.
30' left of ], start 15' left of the huge, left-facing dihedral. There is an existing 2-bolt rap anchor at 30m.
A full rack of cams up to #4 BD. This can be climbed without nuts.