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low on the route
This wild ride takes you up the edge of the pillar and into the recess between the pillar and the main wall then back out again onto a huge fin. Start on the face and climb straight up gaining the arete. Do not stem out to the main wall or you will feel like a looser and your belayer will probably take a rock to the head. If you do stem it's 10.c, but don't it's not cleaned for stemming.
Follow bolts weaving around the arete and finish back on the face, long and varied, definitely memorable!
Far side of the pillar towards Matrix
14 bolts (couple longer draws or slings)
em stemming the top section
|Comments on Pre-Spice Blow
|By Nick Stayner|
From: The Magic City
Sep 17, 2012
Feels more like 5.9 when stemming... but still totally worth doing! Awesome position and great climbing. Right side seemed pretty clean if you pay attention. Good one for the morning shade FCR circuit, along with Euro Trash Girl/Werewolves of London/Crossbow Chaos Theory (among others).