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Surgery Buttress
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Pre Op 

YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Tracy Martin & Jeff Achey - 2003
Page Views: 751
Submitted By: Josh Janes on Dec 7, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (11)
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BETA PHOTO: Pre Op climbs the open book dihedral in the middle...

Description 

This is the second route you come to around the corner; it takes a vague line right of a right-facing corner.


Protection 

10 bolts or so.



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By Lynn S
Apr 20, 2009
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

Fun route the entire way. 10d seems a bit overrated, nothing felt anywhere near that grade. There were a couple of reachy moves that if you were shorter, it would certainly force you to use smaller holds.

By Michael Schneiter
From: Glenwood Springs, CO
Apr 25, 2009

Great route, excellent stone. The crux comes right away with some potentially reachy moves, followed by good, sustained and thoughtful climbing in the open-book corner feature.

This is the second route from the right that you come to on the main part of the wall.

By Michael Schneiter
From: Glenwood Springs, CO
Jul 18, 2011

This route now has its own anchor, after many requests, below the usually dirty ledges at the top. The new anchor is at the last bolt of the climb because the rock above was quite hollow and I didn't feel comfortable placing it anywhere above that last bolt. If you still want to get those last few moves of climbing you can top out the climb the original way and the glue-in pins are still there. Bring some links/chain.