Pre-Marital Sex 5.10b
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| Type: | Trad, 1 pitch, 110 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.10b [details] |
| FA: | Mike K. & Mark G. |
| New Route: | Yes |
| Submitted By: | Mike on May 21, 2008 |
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BETA PHOTO: rope shows the line of the FA
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Description This route is the obvious splitter crack in a corner about 30' left (up-gully) from The Windows Route. To start, grab your gear and scramble up the gulley to the notch between the towers. Traverse in on a 5.easy ledge on a limestone band until you are below the corner. Optional belay off gear here.
Climb a short section of softer rock to the start of the nice crack. Climb crack (mostly #1 Camalots) to a ledge. Continue up a corner (fingers) and flake to a small roof crack to another ledge. Pull onto the upper summit and belay off bolts.
To descend, rap off bolted anchor. A 70m rope just makes it to the ground, but a 60m rope will easily get you back to the first ledge, where you can traverse back to the notch and down the gully.
Protection Nuts, single set of cams to #4 Camalot, doubles of .75 and 3 #1's. Some slings are helpful to reduce rope drag.
Description This route is the obvious splitter crack in a corner about 30' left (up-gully) from The Windows Route. To start, grab your gear and scramble up the gully to the notch between the towers. Traverse in on a 5.easy ledge on a limestone band until you are below the splitter. Optional belay off gear here.
Climb multiple, varying cracks up a short section of softer rock to the start of the splitter. climb crack (mostly #1 Camalots) to a ledge. Continue up a corner (fingers) with a flake on it's right, then a small roof crack to another ledge. Pull onto the lower (right side) summit and belay of bolts, or continue on for another 10' or so to the top of the upper summit and belay of blocks.
To descend, rap off the bolts on the lower summit. A 70m rope just makes it to the ground, but a 60m rope will easily get you back to the first ledge, where you can traverse back to the notch and down the gully.
Protection Nuts, single set of cams to #4 Camalot, doubles of .75 and at least 3 #1's. Some slings are helpful to reduce rope drag.
Tyler peeling off a big block
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| Comments on Pre-Marital Sex |
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By markguycan
From: flagstaff, az
May 21, 2008
| traverse in on limestone is probably only 3 or 4th class, good jams and fun moves above w/ adequate proection available. |
By roman d
From: Pasadena, CA
Mar 29, 2010
rating: 5.10
| Did the direct start today (1 bolt) and got spanked. Awkward stemming right off the deck. Took a few tries... awesome climb, but enough loose rock to warrant caution in some spots. We cleaned a 200lb or so flake towards the top (just left of the route, it looked ok, then I put a piece behind it, tugged, and nearly launched the block off right then!)
Also, 4-5 #1 camalots would not be uncalled for, especially if doing the direct start |
By TylerW
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Mar 29, 2010
rating: 5.10b
| The direct start is definitely solid 10b. And the crux might be significantly harder if under around 6'2". Pretty well protected though. Definitely some of the more interesting moves I've done, but pretty sandy rock. The upper thin hands section is money. |
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