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Super Crack Tower
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A Marriage Reality T 
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Pre-Marital Sex 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 110'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Mike K. & Mark G.
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 724
Submitted By: Mike on May 21, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4)
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BETA PHOTO: rope shows the line of the FA

Description 

This route is the obvious splitter crack in a corner about 30' left (up-gully) from The Windows Route. To start, grab your gear and scramble up the gulley to the notch between the towers. Traverse in on a 5.easy ledge on a limestone band until you are below the corner. Optional belay off gear here.

Climb a short section of softer rock to the start of the nice crack. Climb crack (mostly #1 Camalots) to a ledge. Continue up a corner (fingers) and flake to a small roof crack to another ledge. Pull onto the upper summit and belay off bolts.

To descend, rap off bolted anchor. A 70m rope just makes it to the ground, but a 60m rope will easily get you back to the first ledge, where you can traverse back to the notch and down the gully.

Protection 

Nuts, single set of cams to #4 Camalot, doubles of .75 and 3 #1's. Some slings are helpful to reduce rope drag.


Photos of Pre-Marital Sex Slideshow Add Photo
Tyler peeling off a big block
Tyler peeling off a big block

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By markguycan
From: flagstaff, AZ
May 21, 2008

traverse in on limestone is probably only 3 or 4th class, good jams and fun moves above w/ adequate proection available.
By roman d
From: Pasadena, CA
Mar 29, 2010
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b

Did the direct start today (1 bolt) and got spanked. Awkward stemming right off the deck. Took a few tries... awesome climb, but enough loose rock to warrant caution in some spots. We cleaned a 200lb or so flake towards the top (just left of the route, it looked ok, then I put a piece behind it, tugged, and nearly launched the block off right then!)

Also, 4-5 #1 camalots would not be uncalled for, especially if doing the direct start
By TylerW
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Mar 29, 2010
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

The direct start is definitely solid 10b. And the crux might be significantly harder if under around 6'2". Pretty well protected though. Definitely some of the more interesting moves I've done, but pretty sandy rock. The upper thin hands section is money.