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Me climbing the second pitch of Pre-Emptive Strike...
|BLM Managed Lands at Castle Rocks CLOSED TO CLIMBING!! Castle Rocks State Park lands are OPEN TO CLIMBING MORE INFO >>>|
Climbing is on excellent patina granite, pulling on significant jugs/edges. Start with a difficult side pull/balance move off the deck and move up the patina face. 10 feet of easy 5.10 and then cruise the rest of the route at 5.7. There is a second set of anchors at approx 50 feet up so the route can be broken into two pitches if desired. (and also rappelled in two pitches). We used a 70 meter rope and did one pitch lead and rappel.
The route goes up the north face. Starting from the highest point on the north side, scramble around behind a large detached flake of rock moving west along the bottom of the north side of Bracksiecks Pillar until you come to a small tree growing out of the rock. This will be just west of the major weakness that ascends the north face.
Route consists of bolts but pro can be placed if desired (not necessary) to chain anchors on the face near the top of the pillar.
By Gabriel Tallent
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Jun 24, 2015
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
The route opens with several moves of 5.10ish climbing, but eases considerably. I don't know why it's rated PG13 here. The climbing was well protected and enormously secure. Do it in one pitch with a 70 meter rope.
By peter heekin
Apr 16, 2016
My friends Dean Hernandez and David Cruz and I bolted this route after Mike Anderson was said to have solo'd the line. The first anchor was already there from the then climbing ranger Brad Shilling. He had used it to descend from some other route he did. It can be done in one pitch, and I believe lowered with one rope, probably a seventy. I don't remember it being run out either.