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Bracksiek's Pillar
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Pre-Emptive Strike 

Pre-Emptive Strike 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ British: E1 5a PG13

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 110', Grade V
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a/b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VI+ British: E2 5b [details]
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Page Views: 589
Submitted By: vernon phinney on Jul 9, 2008
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Me climbing the second pitch of Pre-Emptive Strike...

Description 

Climbing is on excellent patina granite, pulling on significant jugs/edges. Start with a difficult side pull/balance move off the deck and move up the patina face. 10 feet of easy 5.10 and then cruise the rest of the route at 5.7. There is a second set of anchors at approx 50 feet up so the route can be broken into two pitches if desired. (and also rappelled in two pitches). We used a 70 meter rope and did one pitch lead and rappel.


Location 

The route goes up the north face. Starting from the highest point on the north side, scramble around behind a large detached flake of rock moving west along the bottom of the north side of Bracksiecks Pillar until you come to a small tree growing out of the rock. This will be just west of the major weakness that ascends the north face.


Protection 

Route consists of bolts but pro can be placed if desired (not necessary) to chain anchors on the face near the top of the pillar.



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