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 ADVANCED
Wendell Spire
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Bag of Tricks aka Flake 
Beak, The 
Black Streak, The 
Bob's Nob 
Castlewood Capers 
Cheesedick Soiree 
Cobble Wobble 
Horizontal Bop 
Icerigger 
Nob Job 
Noodlers' Nightmare 
Nose Job 
Phalloid Void 
Pit Viper 
Pocket, The 
Prarie Dog 
Ruse, The 
Seamless aka Knappweed Infestation 
Sidewinder 
Slot, The 
Song of the Wood 
Sub, The 
Sun Cave Direct 
Sun Cave Right 
Svengali 
Textured Landscape 
Triskaidekaphobia 
Unsorted Routes:

Prarie Dog 

YDS: 5.10c/d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Tom Hanson, 1996
Page Views: 461
Submitted By: Richard M. Wright on Oct 19, 2001
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the crux
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Description 

The third buttress left of Wendell Spire holds routes on both the left and right corners. Prarie Dog runs up the left corner.

Reach for some big-ish jugs on slightly crumbling rock to get established under a small roof/bulge. Pulling the roof/bulge is the crux (has a bolt just out of sight over the bulge!), and it is considerably more powerful than one may anticipate. Throwing for the jug over the roof/bulge works well but feels a bit committing. It goes statically if you pull down the lock-off. Saunter up to the anchor by staying on the arete.

This route is a worthy addition to the Wendell Spire sector and provides a good, pumpy warm up for some of the adjacent tweakers.


Protection 

Half a dozen draws and a rope.



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By Ben Mottinger
Founding Father
Nov 18, 2001

The feet at the crux seem insecure when throwing for the lip, but the left hand and foot can really crank off those holds. A deadpoint seems committing, but go for the onsight--it's well-protected.

By Darrin Stein
From: Laurens, SC
Dec 7, 2001

Of course the ratings are subjective, but this one is on my top five out at Castlewood. Below the crux: A left foot high in the hueco, right foot underneath on a knob - Left hand to the right of the left foot......grunt and shoot the big knob. Another Tom Hanson classic.

By ROC
From: Englewood, CO
Mar 6, 2003

Fun route, too bad its so short. The crux is over before you know it then its just a few more feet of easy moves to the end. Definately easier than it looks.