The third buttress left of Wendell Spire holds routes on both the left and right corners. Prarie Dog runs up the left corner.
Reach for some big-ish jugs on slightly crumbling rock to get established under a small roof/bulge. Pulling the roof/bulge is the crux (has a bolt just out of sight over the bulge!), and it is considerably more powerful than one may anticipate. Throwing for the jug over the roof/bulge works well but feels a bit committing. It goes statically if you pull down the lock-off. Saunter up to the anchor by staying on the arete.
This route is a worthy addition to the Wendell Spire sector and provides a good, pumpy warm up for some of the adjacent tweakers.
Half a dozen draws and a rope.
|By Ben Mottinger|
Nov 18, 2001
The feet at the crux seem insecure when throwing for the lip, but the left hand and foot can really crank off those holds. A deadpoint seems committing, but go for the onsight--it's well-protected.
|By Darrin Stein|
From: Milwaukee, WI
Dec 7, 2001
Of course the ratings are subjective, but this one is on my top five out at Castlewood. Below the crux: A left foot high in the hueco, right foot underneath on a knob - Left hand to the right of the left foot......grunt and shoot the big knob. Another Tom Hanson classic.
From: Englewood, CO
Mar 6, 2003
Fun route, too bad its so short. The crux is over before you know it then its just a few more feet of easy moves to the end. Definately easier than it looks.