Prairie Squid Wall Rock Climbing
Prairie Squid Wall, Holcomb Valley Pinnacles
This wall lies southeast of Moonshine Dome and can easily be seen from the 4WD road on the west side of the Pinnacles. It is the west-facing wall of the formation best known for The Incinerator
(5.12a) on the north end.
It is a short wall with several fun, easy routes and many possibilities for variation. For most of the routes, the most challenging climbing is at the start, followed by easier ground. It is also a good place to learn gear placement as the routes are generally face climbs with great stances and cracks for pro.
In the center of the wall there is a small roof at the top; under the roof are two bolts, ostensibly for TR, but there are no chains or rings attached to the hangers and the routes that reach this anchor are best done by climbing the roof and setting up a gear anchor, not only because a gear anchor is necessary to safely clean the TR but because the roof move is pretty fun! There is a lesser roof to the right that is a bit easier and more stable yet still quite fun.
Prairie Squid Wall can be accessed either by heading up and east from the 4WD road and scrambling past several rows of boulders, or by hiking north from the trail for Pistol Whipped Wall. It is also possible to scramble south from the north parking lot, past the east side of Wilburs Tombstone.
Weather station 4.5 miles from here
5 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',0],['2 Stars',0],['1 Star',5],['Bomb',0]
Featured Route For Prairie Squid Wall
Squid Vicious 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b CA
: San Bernardino Mountains
: ... : Prairie Squid Wall
Start just right of the block that sits at the base of the wall, climbing straight up the face, passing several horizontals and a couple bulges. This one is just left of the obvious center crack in the wall (Prairie Squid). The crux is surmounting the last bulge. Above, traverse left over plates to the top rope anchor. If not setting up a TR, clip the anchor and climb the roof above (fun, maybe 5.7) then walk to a crack system to set up a gear anchor. If you set up a TR, you will still need...[more] Browse More Classics in CA
Negotiating the upper bulges, en route to the roof...
BETA PHOTO: Prairie Squid Wall in the alpenglow.
By Mary Moser
Jul 10, 2013
My climbing partner and I thought these climbs felt fairly easy for their ratings, but it was a fun wall to enjoy at the end of the day.