|New Vice Area
Small holds lead to a large hueco and the first bolt. After clipping the first bolt move right on small crimpy holds to the second bolt (crux). Continue up, angling left, following the bolts to the anchor. This route shares anchors with No Whipping Boys.
This route is the bolted line to the right of the finger crack No Whippin Boys and the large diagonal crack Living Postmortems. It starts half way up a hill. Look for a large and most likely over chalked hueco about 10 feet up.
4 Bolts to a 2 bolt anchor. Please use your own gear for top roping.
Photo #2 of Isaac's lead of the beautiful Pr...
|By John Rosner|
From: Hopkins, MN
Aug 11, 2008
This route is more difficult than rated without very particular beta for those under 6' I give it a 5.11a/b, I'm 5'8" and the direct start to dealer's choice (the pusher) is rated a 5.11b and that was onsightable. Absolutely an awesome climb, a crash pad is welcome here.
Jul 11, 2010
This was one of the first routes I ever led outside of the climbing wall where I learned to climb. It must have been spring or summer 2002.
I fell going to the first bolt, hit the ground, which angles to the left, flew past my spotters, who thought that I would fall towards them, and rolled down the hill for twenty feet. I was happy to be able to do it second try, with bloody cuts all over my back.
It's funny how different things look with experience.