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West Side
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Practice Slab 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  TR, 1 pitch, 75'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7+ French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Unknown
Page Views: 1,334
Submitted By: Anonymous Coward on Nov 11, 2001
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Proud Papa, checkin out the view with Savannah.
Seasonal Closures in place MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This is a friction slab climb that is on the west face of South Gateway Rock nearest the north. Climb up from the south via 3-4th class, and you will see bolts about 70-75' above the ground.


Protection 

2 bolts anchor most routes in the area. A 0.75 cam and similar sized nuts work in limited spots. There are very few placement possibilities. It is best to toprope this.



Photos of Practice Slab Slideshow Add Photo
Savannah, finishing up the crux of the slab.  Typical G.O.G. style, she had a crowd of onlookers watching her (one probably calling social services) at the end Savannah belows to the crowd, "GIRLS ROCK!" She had some cheers.
Savannah, finishing up the crux of the slab. Typi...
Savannha starting out on the slab, chalked up to her elbows, and pig tails.
Savannha starting out on the slab, chalked up to h...
Brian smears up the practice slab with red and white spire in the background.
Brian smears up the practice slab with red and whi...
Photo by Tim Menke.
BETA PHOTO: Photo by Tim Menke.
Comments on Practice Slab Add Comment
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By Darin Lang
Nov 13, 2001

Access to the TR setup from the S is 3rd-4th class only because of the convenient steps chopped into the soft sandstone, probably by someone with an alpenstock. Once you get the TR in place, you can climb about anywhere on the slab, choosing your own difficulty from 5.4 to 5.8.

By Matt Robertson
Nov 13, 2001

Those step-chipping bastards with the alpenstocks. We oughtta vow to lynch any bastard seen climbing with an alpenstock.

Where on the Spectrum does "chipping steps with alpenstock" lie?

By Sean O'Dell
Mar 6, 2002

The crux is, in my opinion, getting to the anchor to set up the TR. "Those step chopping bastards" only took care of part of the approach. There's still a semi-dicey 4th class traverse for about 40 feet to the get to anchors once you step off the chopped steps. Not all that technically hard, but definitely in a place where a slip could ruin your weekend. Also, bring a biner or 2 to back up the permanent clips on the cable at the anchors. They're starting to look kind of...um...old. This route really isn't good for much except what its name implies - practice. Doing a few lines on this face on TR will definitely make you more comfortable on the real deal slab routes such as Finger Ramp and Silver Spoon.

By Stewart M. Green
Sep 12, 2007

On Monday, September 10, Brian Shelton, CJ Sidebottom, and I installed a new anchor for Practice Slab since the existing old one is unsafe. We glued in two 1/2-inch eyebolts and a 1/2-inch Army angle. The existing anchor was left as a back up. Do not thread your rope directly through the eyebolts for top-roping, instead used carabiners and slings or quickdraws to create an equalized anchor from the three pieces. Top-roping directly through the eyebolts wears them out very quickly!

By Michael Lucky
From: Charleston, SC
Jun 4, 2012

I agree on the access for TR it isn't bad, but if you slipped, it would be pretty serious. Other than that, it was a nice climb if you like slabs.