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Practice Run 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Mike Lane's bolts, Tod Anderson's anchors?
Page Views: 1,268
Submitted By: Mark Roth on Oct 12, 2010

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Not a mandatory move.

Raptor Closures MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Follow the 2nd bolt line from the right. Short cruxes are encountered at the overhangs which are easier if tall (still fun for the small though). Head up the face aiming for the center of a small arch. The yellow lichen bulge is the first difficulty, then pull over the arch onto really cool chicken heads, and head up and slightly right to a shared anchor. Clipping the anchor is probably the real crux, since everything is a little sloping and insecure (compared to all the in-cut holds to which you are now accustomed)....

Location 

This is the 2nd bolt line from the right.

Protection 

Bolts, 2 bolt anchor (one Metolius rap hanger and one cold shut).


Photos of Practice Run Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Lila stepping over the first bulge.
Lila stepping over the first bulge.
Rock Climbing Photo: Start is just right of guy @ bottom, anchor can be...
Start is just right of guy @ bottom, anchor can be...
Rock Climbing Photo: Fun roof, even for us shorties.
Fun roof, even for us shorties.

Comments on Practice Run Add Comment
Show which comments
By Jake Barney
Aug 23, 2015

Very fun, well-protected climb except the move to clip the anchor which is the crux for taller folks (shorter folks may find the 2nd roof more challenging). May want to scope it out from the 5.6 to the left if you don't feel very solid on 5.8.

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