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 ADVANCED
Bridge Wall North (Practice Rock)
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Practice Rock TR 
Safety in Numbers T,TR 
US 34 Bypass T,TR 
Unsorted Routes:

Practice Rock 

YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b

   
Type:  TR, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: don't know
Page Views: 1,076
Submitted By: Gary Schmidt on Mar 4, 2003

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (9)
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Practice Rock.

Description 

Amidst all the crud and loose rock that makes more for nice tourist views than safe rock climbing is this gem of a rock (the rock is somewhat orange in color). This rock is immediately west of the crack climb described in Gillett's book and just east of Half Pipe. Solid and varied is the name of the game. From one top rope anchor, one can pretty much choose the difficulty based on line. There is a bit of everything, so perhaps that is why "Practice Rock" is an appropriate name. Only thing you have to put up with, particularly in the summer is the constant traffic, and a few camera shutters going off. Have fun!

Protection 

There are two recent bolts set up and back above the climb. Approach via the gully just to the west and then do a somewhat exposed traverse across to the bolts. Long slings (in order to reach the main cliff) may be helpful depending on your anchor building style.


Photos of Practice Rock Slideshow Add Photo
Jason finding his way up Practice Rock.
Jason finding his way up Practice Rock.
Gary on Practice Rock.
Gary on Practice Rock.
Gary stemming up Practice Rock.
Gary stemming up Practice Rock.
Roadside Attraction.
Roadside Attraction.

Comments on Practice Rock Add Comment
Show which comments
By Travis R. Thompson
From: Parachute (Rifle), CO
Sep 2, 2006
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Hey, I was just wondering why has no one bolted the practice slab so that you could lead it? I personally have had to wonder for some time now. I have top-roped all over the face many times and have also noticed that the three most obvious lines that could be bolted are those that are highlighted in the picture. I think that all three of these would be great lines and would personally love to see them bolted because of their exceptional quality. I think it would be hard to argue that they would not be some of the better climbs in the canyon. Just my thoughts wondered what other were thinking?
By allen simons
Sep 3, 2006

These have been top rope climbs for a long time. I have not bolted them because it seems more of a "practice wall" and bolting them has seemed out of place to me. al
By Travis R. Thompson
From: Parachute (Rifle), CO
Sep 11, 2006
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Hey Allen could you expound on what you mean by out of place. I'm not sure I understand what you mean?
Also, does anyone else have any opinions?
By allen simons
Sep 12, 2006

Before I offer my opinion let me say this. I will never tell someone what they should or should not bolt. That being said, to me, "out of place" means that this wall has been scaled numerous times going back long before I ever set foot in the canyon back in the early '90s. It has always been a toprope wall or led on scarce gear. The central crack and left side of the wall will take gear if you work at it and have most probably been led by Disney, Kor, Wilford, or one of the many other climbers to first climb in the area. Bolting there, to me, seems a disservice to the first ascensionist. The right side is harder and may not have ever had a first non-toprope ascent, but it has been TR'd hundreds of times, and bolting an established TR climb seems out of place. For those reasons, I prefer to keep it a "practice rock" or toprope area. As an example, there is another rock in the canyon that I bolted extensively back in '94-'96 that has some fine routes on it. I was younger and full of myself and did not even think someone may have climbed it before me. I found out later that a good portion of it had, in fact, been climbed and toproped by an earlier generation. For me, when I learned of this from the original first ascensionist, I felt bad, although the first ascensionist never make me feel that way and seemed to think the bolts were ok. Like I said however. I won't tell anyone what to bolt.
Cheers.
By Travis R. Thompson
From: Parachute (Rifle), CO
Sep 13, 2006
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Hey, Allen, I have been thinking a lot about what you meant by, "out of place." It finally dawned on me, and what you had to say about the disservice to the first climbers is totally true, I couldn't agree more and hadn't really thought about that aspect before. I also wanted to say thank you for your story about your own bolting, it really had a lot to say to me personally. I have realized more and more that bolting and establishing new climbs is not something to be taken lightly. All aspects need to be very very well thought out, probably, dare I say it, discussed with others in the climbing community before any bolting is even considered. It's definitely not something that you should do to get your name out there. The name that you throw out will undoubtably take on the qulity of your climbs. Thanks a ton for your comments and insight!


Travis
By allen simons
Sep 14, 2006

No Problemo, man. I have established several new climbs in the last year, have you had a chance to climb any of them? Al