|West Ridge - part C - Pony Express to Long John
Practice Climb 101
|Type: ||Trad, 2 pitches, 175'|
|Consensus: || YDS: 5.12b/c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- British: E6 6b [details]|
|FA: ||Larry and Roger Dalke, 1966, FFA: P1, Bearshears, Erickson, Wunsch, 1976, FFA: P2, John Allen, 1981.|
|Fixed Hardware: ||2 Belay Bolts [details]|
|Page Views: ||1,753|
|Submitted By: ||bhoran on Jan 3, 2009|
|Good Page?||1 person likes this page. Your opinion: |
Bob Horan on the 3rd ascent of Practice Climb 101'...
Located within the Sidewall Area, left, north of Sooberb, Sidewall and just left of False Prophet. Climb over the bulge into the right-facing corner, 5.11, up to a nice belay ledge with two bolts. The second, crux pitch, follows the thin crack in the overhanging headwall, 5.12c, to wall above, face and crack climb to the tree belay set-up.
Located within the Sidewall Area, left, north of Sooberb, Sidewall and just left of False Prophet.
Small wires and Friends, some fixed pins.
Starting the crux sequence on pitch 2.
|Comments on Practice Climb 101
|By Joseph P. Crotty|
From: Broomfield, CO
Jan 3, 2009
rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ E5 6b PG13
Note, currently, there is no fixed pin protecting the crux second pitch finger crack/roof. A mix of small cams and nuts works nicely. The R rating is unwarranted as there is just enough modern gear to keep things under control.
|By Rob Kepley|
Jan 18, 2009
rating: 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ E6 6b R
Yeah, no pin at the crux but really not needed. Small cams will do nicely. Get on this and feel the gravity tugging at you!
|By Steven Lucarelli|
From: Moab, UT
Jan 31, 2009
rating: 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- E6 6b
This route rules! It took me a while to get the redpoint but I was always motivated to get back on it because it's so good. I'd still get back on it even after the redpoint. Thanks for the belays Rob, Joe, John and Carrie!