Located within the Sidewall Area, left, north of Sooberb, Sidewall and just left of False Prophet. Climb over the bulge into the right-facing corner, 5.11, up to a nice belay ledge with two bolts. The second, crux pitch, follows the thin crack in the overhanging headwall, 5.12c, to wall above, face and crack climb to the tree belay set-up.
Located within the Sidewall Area, left, north of Sooberb, Sidewall and just left of False Prophet.
By Joseph P. Crotty From: Broomfield, CO Jan 3, 2009 rating: 5.12b7b26VIII+26E5 6b PG13
Note, currently, there is no fixed pin protecting the crux second pitch finger crack/roof. A mix of small cams and nuts works nicely. The R rating is unwarranted as there is just enough modern gear to keep things under control.
By Rob Kepley From: Westminster,CO Jan 18, 2009 rating: 5.127b+27VIII+26E6 6b R
Yeah, no pin at the crux but really not needed. Small cams will do nicely. Get on this and feel the gravity tugging at you!
This route rules! It took me a while to get the redpoint but I was always motivated to get back on it because it's so good. I'd still get back on it even after the redpoint. Thanks for the belays Rob, Joe, John and Carrie!