The Pownall-Gilkey is a less-traveled and more challenging 3-pitch variation/alternative to the crowded Owen-Spalding.
Follow the standard Owen-Spalding approach to the Upper Saddle. Upon reaching the Upper Saddle, traverse right, to the south (Owen-Spalding is to the left).
Pitch 1 (5.8): Upon traversing right, the ledge system gradually steepens and narrows (after approximately 100'). At the end of the ledge system, follow a thin crack in the steep corner. Climb this crack to the top of the block, then on to a comfortable ledge.
Pitch 2 (5.6): Follow the obvious, easier crack to the wide bench extending across the southwest face of the Grand Teton.
Pitch 3 (3rd/4th): Traverse directly to rejoin the upper portion of the Owen-Spalding or the Exum Ridge.
One set of cams up to 2", stoppers, one 60m rope.
BETA PHOTO: Greg Collins leading first pitch. Aider placed fo...
BETA PHOTO: Looking west from ledge system above Upper Saddle....
BETA PHOTO: Near the top of the 2nd pitch (5.8). Some pins dur...
|By Mike A. Lewis|
From: Boulder, CO
Jul 30, 2013
1st Pitch: The 1st "pitch" traverses right from upper saddle (below the base of the west face rappels). This pitch is easy, but very exposed and has a few slabby moves that will make you think when wearing gloves and approach shoes. A few Pins and a bolt. There are some cracks to place gear if you want. This pitch ends on a ledge full of large blocks. About 40m.
2nd Pitch: Climb a short crack in a left facing corner. Slabby at first. Once past this crack, stand on a large ledge with a pin. Then go up the 20ft 5.8 corner with a few pins and a fixed nut. Climb to a ledge with a bolt. Other pro can be placed here to back up the bolt. 35m.
3rd Pitch: Climb straight up. There is a pin sticking out of a crack. Nice, fun pitch with jugs. Past this face, climb up a left leaning slab/wide crack. Finish on a large ledge. 5.6-ish, 35m.
Finish by traversing left - 2nd/3rd class, and connect to the Owen-Spalding or the Upper Exum.
Descent: Do the normal raps back down to the Upper Saddle.
|By Gee Double|
Jul 1, 2014
Almost all the gear is fixed in summer, dry conditions, I recommend #3 friend for belay out right, w/crux above