|Type:||Sport, 4 pitches, 400'|
|Original:||YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]|
|FA:||Jonathan Richards and Douglas Martin|
|Submitted By:||David Delkeskamp on Oct 22, 2013 with updates from Adam Merry|
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By Simon W
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Aug 24, 2014
A worthy outing. Every Pinnacles 5.10 climber should get on this and Mission Impossible next-door at whitetail rock, especially if you are looking to get out in the middle of summer. Climbed on 8/23/14 and the temps were perfect to climb in shorts and a t-shirt. Left jacket at the base. In the shade all day.
The first one is in pretty good shape. Some of the higher ones could use some love. Homemade hangars made of thin aluminum. One of the hangars was spinning. Apart from the need for rap rings on the 4th station, this route is a good candidate for some anchor bolt love.
The first, second, third, and fifth belay stations have rap rings or chains. Adding quick-links or chains to the fourth belay would allow you to get to the ground doing single rope raps on a 60. It would probably take 3 raps, but the important thing is that you can rap to the ground from the second anchor. We rapped from the top anchor, all the way to the second anchor, to the ground, using two 60s. (On the last rap half of both ropes was on the ground.) Definitely not worth the work hiking an extra rope to The Citadel, when all that's needed is some quicklinks on the 4th anchor.
Unless you climb the crack on the first pitch, the only place you'll want trad pro is getting from the 1st belay, to the first bolt on the second pitch. There is a 5.8ish corner crack that takes fingers sized gear that goes for about 20 feet, then it's astro-turf traverse to get to the first bolt. Not very secure due to the moss, but otherwise easy. We placed a .5 and .4 C4, but a .3 would have been better for the second piece. Even with the gear you don't really want to fall there, but the outlook would be a lot worse without it.
Overall a worthy outing. 10c is about right. The crux on this one felt easier than Mission Impossible, and if you add up all the good climbing on this I felt it had more fun moves overall than that climb.
Nov 30, 2014
|Went to climb this route yesterday. Started on the 12a variation. The 12a is a overhanging moss covered pile of choss. We decided to just do the standard route instead after down climbing half of the 12a. The 10c is Really Really loose! I broke off about 3 cubic feet of rock in the first 10 feet. the rest is all choss and loose blocks that flex under your feet. pitch 2 is just more choss and run out between bolts. dont bother bring cams for pitch 2 the "finger" crack off the start is loose and full of choss. if you can brave thru runout moss and choss for 4 pitches with loose bolts and no gear you will have a great time. If you are a climber and enjoy climbing ROCK not moss dont bother with the hike unless u want to walk up the 5.4 on the ridge.|
By John Buchenauer
Jan 10, 2015
|Rapped off of this after doing Costanoan. I added rings to the intermediate belay on P4 so all that is needed to go top to bottom on the Citadel is one 60m rope. It takes 4 raps top to bottom.|
By Adam Merry
May 20, 2016
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
The crack just above the first belay takes a .3 c4 and makes the traverse across the moss gully feel less sketchy.
Overall, a great line and those accustomed to Pinnacles routes will find the rock quality in line with other climbs in the area. Definitely worth doing. Pitch three is excellent.