Pitch one we climbed the 10b sport (not the 5.9 crack) variation. It was dirty, mossy, traversy, and pretty dang fun. I used single length slings on bolts one and two and didn't get much drag at all. At the anchor atop pitch one I pulled the rope through all of the gear then lowered it back down to Vickie, making it a safer follow. Pitch two head up and right through putting green-like terrain to some (whoooo-hooo) cleaner stone. Pitches 3 and 4 are pretty much clean killer bee sport climbing with an emphasis on stemming. Less pumpy than it's neighbor "Misson Impossible". Vic and I felt the bolt location was right on; bolts at all cruxy bits. Young guide calls PT 5.10d so go send it and start feeling good about yourself again.
Final notes: Beware of raptor closures (Citadel formation is open in the fall) and PT faces north so it is shady.
PT is just down hill from Costanoan (see the Young guide). To descend we scrambled down a gully just uphill from Costanoan. It allowed us to take only one rope but it was a nasty bushwhack. Young guide says double rope rap PT or Costanoan or fourth class down the southeast face.
Draws and a few slings.
|By Simon W|
6 days ago
A worthy outing. Every Pinnacles 5.10 climber should get on this and Mission Impossible next-door at whitetail rock, especially if you are looking to get out in the middle of summer. Climbed on 8/23/14 and the temps were perfect to climb in shorts and a t-shirt. Left jacket at the base. In the shade all day.
The first one is in pretty good shape. Some of the higher ones could use some love. Homemade hangars made of thin aluminum. One of the hangars was spinning. Apart from the need for rap rings on the 4th station, this route is a good candidate for some anchor bolt love.
The first, second, third, and fifth belay stations have rap rings or chains. Adding quick-links or chains to the fourth belay would allow you to get to the ground doing single rope raps on a 60. It would probably take 3 raps, but the important thing is that you can rap to the ground from the second anchor. We rapped from the top anchor, all the way to the second anchor, to the ground, using two 60s. (On the last rap half of both ropes was on the ground.) Definitely not worth the work hiking an extra rope to The Citadel, when all that's needed is some quicklinks on the 4th anchor.
Unless you climb the crack on the first pitch, the only place you'll want trad pro is getting from the 1st belay, to the first bolt on the second pitch. There is a 5.8ish corner crack that takes fingers sized gear that goes for about 20 feet, then it's astro-turf traverse to get to the first bolt. Not very secure due to the moss, but otherwise easy. We placed a .5 and .4 C4, but a .3 would have been better for the second piece. Even with the gear you don't really want to fall there, but the outlook would be a lot worse without it.
Overall a worthy outing. 10c is about right. The crux on this one felt easier than Mission Impossible, and if you add up all the good climbing on this I felt it had more fun moves overall than that climb.