|441 page views|
This short bouldery climb seems difficult to rate. It moves through the roof to the right of Stupendous Man. David Rubine's book calls it 11d/12a but I've heard it called as low as 11a. It joins Stupendous Man at the fourth bolt, but most climbers stop at this bolt.
|By Aaron Formella|
From: Atascadero, CA
Aug 16, 2009
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b
Definitely hard to rate this climb accurately. One dynamic move can get you past the crux. Very overhanging on the lower part of the route + very well protected by bolts = a safe fall on lead at the crux.
|By aaron hope|
From: Walnut Creek, CA
Aug 31, 2010
I think if you have perfect beta at the crux and work it, you can make it feel like 10+ or 11a. If not, then it's much harder.
Mar 13, 2012
Two very different lines; one skirting the bolts, one straight up. The 11c/d line moves right across the first bolt to the side-crimp and dead-points the left hand. The 11a/b line moves from the good crimp right of the first bolt LEFT to the sloper, matches this, and moves up on the left side of the bolt line.
Personally, the left-hand version is more interesting than the right-hand, ignoring the grade difference, but each to their own... Bolts are perfectly placed and the top section of Stupendous Man is enjoyable either way.