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Power Play 

YDS: 5.12 French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: VIII+ British: E6 6b PG13

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 140'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12 French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: VIII+ British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Alan Nelson
Page Views: 210
Submitted By: SteveZ on Jul 9, 2013
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Description 

Power Play meanders up the long gray face to the right of the tunnel on mostly good stone. Begin by scrambling up easy fifth class with bad fall potential to a two bolt belay at the base of the slab above a large roof. From here, begin technical edging up the less than vertical face on crispy holds through interesting sequences. It ends at a two bolt anchor high on top of the wall.

This never builds too much of a pump but does have some hard sequences between stances.

While given 12a in the guidebook, I suspect this has experienced some snapped crimps or weathering as this felt to us to be 12+ or so with some longish runs between bolts. Also it seemed that it doesn't see much traffic as it was a little gritty with a touch of lichen. Being a slab there was no trace of chalk to guide the way. This felt adventurous for sport climbing in CCC.


Location 

This is the furthest left route on the right side of the tunnel. It goes up the long, gray face.


Protection 

10 bolts, some with old and homemade hangers. The bolts are likely pretty old themselves. A few small cams, RPs, or nuts might be desired between bolts.



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By Richard M. Wright
From: Lakewood, CO
Jul 9, 2013

I did Power Play with Alan Nelson in 1997, and I thought that it was his FFA. I'm pretty sure that he bolted it, cleaned it, and ran the first redpoint.

By SteveZ
From: Arvada, CO
Jul 10, 2013

Thanks, Richard! I'll add Alan in as the FA. I should have known it was one of you guys. Did you also do the route next door "Hip at the Lip"? I can't figure out where one would start up it.