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Power Of Union 

YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 115'
Original:  YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Tony Sartin 09/2012
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 790
Submitted By: Tony Sartin on Nov 13, 2012

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Diagonal up and left for four bolts to a bulge and then straight up for three more bolts to a stance in the wide, right slanting crack. Clip a bolt out left and do a powerful move left (crux) to unite the two faces. Another bolt leads to a chain draw under a roof. Pull the intimidating yet easy roof where 7 more bolts lead up and then slightly right to a two bolt lower off.


Start 8 feet right of Psycho Sexy under a fat button head bolt. 35 meter lower off


17 bolts, 10th bolt has a fixed steel draw. Double steel biner lower off.

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By Austin Archer
From: Bishop, Ca.
May 21, 2013
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

Great route! Thanks for putting it up.
By Jeff Scheuerell
Aug 25, 2013
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a

A bit chossier than most routes on the wall, may clean with time, but the climbing is good. I hope nothing large breaks off and takes out a belayer. Also felt harder than any of the other 11bs on the wall.
By Choncho
Jul 19, 2016

Good addition and not a give-away 11c. Well worth it.
By Austin Archer
From: Bishop, Ca.
Aug 7, 2016
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

BOOOO! Who changed out the chain draw under the roof for the rigid, suck shack, homemade swage cable draw? I'm guessing because of rope drag? Climbed this route many times, Its one of my favorites on the wall and I've never thought the chain draw caused any issues. The new cable draw was too long and got tangled up around my harness while clipping the bolt over the roof. I think I'll clip my own extendo draw next time. Still one of the coolest routes on the wall, and is getting cleaner.
By Jeff Scheuerell
Aug 7, 2016
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a

Ya, that thing sucks! Also belayers beware!
By Austin Archer
From: Bishop, Ca.
Aug 8, 2016
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

What!? Pffft! What do you mean Jeff'e? Belayers beware of the awesome spectacle of your partner hanging one arm off jugs at the lip of the roof more like...
By Vlad S
Aug 8, 2016
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a

"and is getting cleaner"

That's great news! In a few more years it will actually be enjoyable (-;

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