Power of the Darkside
|Original: || YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]|
|FA: ||Lee Terveen|
|Season: ||This route is made for the shade. Climb it when the weather is hot!|
|Page Views: ||643|
|Submitted By: ||BBQ on Oct 3, 2011|
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Powerful climbing with powerful moves that don't s...
It doesn't matter if you have been climbing for one season or one hundred. It doesn't matter if you've sent 5.6 or 5.15...you will give into the Power of the Darkside!
You will start in a crack and layback until your arms scream from the force of being ripped from their sockets. You will ascend to a small ledge where you will gain a slight reprieve from the battle fought so far and will be given a chance to form your new strategy for the war to come.
A series of small pockets and crimps get you to a roof feature that requires moves so precise and powerful your lightsaber is sure to go limp.
Recharge your batteries for the freak factor to follow! After the roof the upcoming laybacks and finger locks lead to big, pumpy moves on big pockets. This pumpfest ain't over until the fat lady chokes!
You will beg, you will plead! You will whimper in pain and scream unholy things about your father, but not matter how hard you try to stay on the rock, you will submit to the Power of the Darkside!
Hot freaking damn! DO THIS CLIMB! You will not onsight! You will not send! You will feel the power coarsing through your veins like lightning bolts of furious justice! Don't call take! Ride the lightning! This thing is hard as hell and rated for red point...come and see if you have what it takes to take on the POWER OF THE DARKSIDE!
To the left of Concracktion is a line of black bolts which lead up a 5.12. To the left of the black bolts is the layback crack which has two routes sprouting from it. Power of the Darkside is the bolted line that heads right.
A dozen draws and a willingness to sack up!
Winner of the Golden Scrotum Award for excellence ...
Power of the Darkside, 5.11d GET ON THIS THING!
Roof pull with a layback move to whatever you can ...
Power of the Darkside, 5.11d
Power of the Darkside, 5.11d (and then some!)
Jul 5, 2016
rating: 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Good route with a burly, techy crux. There is some loose rock remaining higher on the route. My friend knocked off a fist-sized block near the top. Thanks for posting the route here. However, the descriptions, although entertaining, are virtually useless. Also, how many shots do we need to see of the same couple moves at the crux? 5?
Jul 5, 2016
Of course the descriptions are useless. I am usually drunk when I write them. For a better perspective on Spearfish Canyon rock climbing, you should refer to Climbing Magazine. Now THEY do a great job of making people want to come here so they poo-poo our playground.
Oh wait a minute, I make all those people want to come here...since I provided all the text those interns copied and pasted into those fabulous articles.