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Power Lust 

YDS: 5.11- French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Sport, 85'
Original:  YDS: 5.11- French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Steve Glotfelty, J. Arnold
Page Views: 4,831
Submitted By: 426 on Mar 6, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (52)
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Upper moves on Power Lust. 7/2012. Photo: Dave S...

Seasonal Raptor Closure MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Nice face/blunt arete to the right of Corrugation Corner.

Tech your way up to the crux mantle a few bolts up, then enjoy fine dike hiking to the top.


Location 

Just right of Corrugation Corner, follow the line of bolts up a face. Lower off or finish on Corrugation Corner (gear required).

Protection 

Draws, open shuts at top.


Photos of Power Lust Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Fun thin moves on Power Lust. 7/2012.   Photo: Dav...
Fun thin moves on Power Lust. 7/2012. Photo: Dav...
Rock Climbing Photo: Bucket Guy looks on as Gregory Turner eyeballs the...
BETA PHOTO: Bucket Guy looks on as Gregory Turner eyeballs the...
Rock Climbing Photo: gettin warmed up in line for corrugation
gettin warmed up in line for corrugation
Rock Climbing Photo: Gregory Turner dike hiking up Powerlust 5.11
Gregory Turner dike hiking up Powerlust 5.11

Comments on Power Lust Add Comment
Show which comments
By Guy H.
From: Fort Collins CO
Oct 6, 2007

A wild ride that should be added to everyone's cragging list on the Main Wall. The cruxes are well protected, but there are a few spacey runouts on 5.9 near the end of the climb. The crux is a full stand up mantle with no hands. It is very helpful to be over 6ft on this one.
By tallmark515
From: San Francisco
Apr 2, 2009
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

This is route is what Lovers Leap is all about; insane mantles and dikes galore.

The very distinguishable crux mid route involved mantling up on my fingertips, then a little hop from my fingertips to grab the jug rail inches above.

It should be noted that I am 6'4".
By Keenan Waeschle
From: Bozeman, MT
Feb 9, 2010

sounds like I need to give this one a try, I'm 6'6"
By Aron Quiter
Administrator
From: Oakland, CA
Nov 7, 2010

At 5'9", I didn't find the crux to be the balancy .11a move at the 4th (?) bolt. The crux for me was higher, at the second to last bolt, where I had to dyno to get to the holds before the final mantle. This was the hardest individual move I did all day, and we were on Nirvana (.12a) later on in the day.
By Cimbing Ivy
From: NV
Jul 27, 2012

Fantastic fun sport route on superb clean rock. No-hand mantling galore with lots of balancy high stepping. It is 11a if you're 6 feet or above (as for my partner), if you're under 5'8" like me, the cruxiest move on the climb is the dyno move with a heel-hook high stepping at shoulder height after the no-hand stand up mantle crux. That single dyno move for south of 6 feet climbers is at least 11 b/c to 12a height-dependent.
By BrianWS
Jan 28, 2013
rating: 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c

Tough for the short. The crux can be done static for shorter climbers, it just requires a bit more finesse.
By Evan Wisheropp
Jun 22, 2015
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

I agree with Guy H. The crux is wild! I tried it mantling from the on the left and right, either way I was 6" short of grabbing the dike from mantling off my fingertips (I'm 5'10"). I ended up using an imaginary sloper below the jug to help balance while I stood up to catch the dike. Wild!

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