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Little Hunk - NE Face (Right)
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ZZZZZ Direct Start 

Power Line 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Randy Vogel & Bob Dominick, August 1976
Page Views: 545
Submitted By: Locker on Oct 18, 2005
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BETA PHOTO: Power Line
A portion of the wall is closed due to Indian rock art. MORE INFO >>>

Description 

the start is pretty interesting...figure it out... I did it right off the ground no traverse as shown in Randys guide...personally for me it felt a little harder (Off route again most likely at the start...Just how I do things???...) than 5.7... whatever!!!... nice laybacking, solid holds, fun footwork... aiming at the bird doo doo, about 15 feet below it is a flake that is very likely to bust loose the very next time someone touches it... Belayer beware!!! Serious potential danger below!!! You can avoid it by moving left then getting back on route above it. The roof move is what some have said is the "Crux" move... The start was for me. The roof was just plain fun!!!


Protection 

protects well with nuts and cams in the small to medium range. Build an anchor... walk off...



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By DJ Reyes
From: Northern Nevada
Apr 18, 2011

I started down low and climbed straight up. Definitely harder. I had to traverse left to avoid the death flake and ended up in the the whitewash where things turned weird and dirty. Interesting traverse led to a stiff exit move. I didn't much like this route, but my partner said he really enjoyed it.

By Stormeh
Jan 30, 2012

I thought this route was terrible. First off: Lots of bat/bird shit immediately left of the route. Additionally, terrible rock quality means bad pro, and I didn't feel at all comfortable tackling the steeper head wall with a microcam or nut in rotting, dark rock. Instead I cut left to the bolts to finish up on the anchors of those slab routes, which are much better (albeit harder) than Power Line. Bomb. Seriously, pass on this route.

By David Lyons
From: Forest Falls, CA
Feb 17, 2014

Did the direct start, straight up from the floor (apparently the start of the 10b). Found it enjoyable, with intriguing "reverse-liebacking", if that makes sense. Heading straight up the vertical headwall (to the right of the guano-encrusted corner) made more sense to me, and was fun. Final little dihedral corner took a truck nut, and nice final topout moves to gain the wide ledge above we kinda neat. Fine gear all the way, smooth jams and fun positions..if done straight-on.