Power Hungry 5.11+
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| Type: | Sport, 2 pitches, 160 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.11c/d [details] |
| FA: | Dave Turner, Mike Head, Larry Spears,'90 |
| Season: | Year round but summer is warm until PM |
| Submitted By: | 1Eric Rhicard on Mar 17, 2008 |
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Description Interesting pumpy crux on the first pitch. It is one of those routes that once you lead it you remember it unlike so many other clip ups. I say that, but perhaps the battle was a good one for me and I won it and that is why I remember it. The second pitch is run out but easy. A cool way to finish it is to move right and finish on the upper part of Metro. There is also a direct start that is 12c or 12d. Rap down the back side of the tower doing two raps. Don't go past the anchors as they are behind you when rapping.
Location Right side of Punch and Judy Towers. Starts up a ramp and takes the right hand line of bolts.
Protection Bolts.
By Joseph Stover
From: Santa Barbara, CA
Jun 20, 2008
rating: 5.11d
| This route is excellent. Getting to the bolt above the shelf can be scary and is not trivial, maybe 5.9 move, but you get to clip from a very nice flake.
The webbing up top seemed to be in decent condition. Don't hesitate to bring up an extra bit or extra biner to back it up. But all anchors scare me...
60M rope barely makes it from the first pitch anchor. Be sure to tie knots when lowering. |
By Brady Robinson
Jan 10, 2010
rating: 5.11d
| Excellent route! I bit of nasty rock before the last bolt kept it from getting 4 stars, but most of the rock is excellent. Bring a .4 (Grey) Camalot if you like. Webbing is getting nasty. I only did the first pitch. This could use a couple quick-links with carabiners on them instead of sunbleached webbing. Do this route. |
By Ben Venter
From: Tucson, AZ
Mar 5, 2011
rating: 5.11+
| Really, really fun. The first clip was scary; the block that you stand on to clip from is a bit loose. The .4 camalot was nice to have but it would be ok without it. |
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