Home - Destinations - iPhone/Android - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New
Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Little Hunk - NE Face (Right)
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Blue Diamond (aka Shock to the System) 
Blues Traveller 
Changes 
Disrythmia 
Electralux 
Electric Blue 
Flower Power 
Incandescent 
New Deal  
Potato Head 
Power Drop 
Power Failure 
Power Line 
Rad Nad 
Smear Factor 
Team Scumbag 
ZZZZZ 
ZZZZZ Direct Start 

Power Failure 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Bob Gaines and Frank Bentwood, May, 2008
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 538
Submitted By: Bob Gaines on Jun 1, 2008
Good Page? 0 people like this page. Your opinion:   

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (7)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
BETA PHOTO: Power Failure
A portion of the wall is closed due to Indian rock art. MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Same start (5.8/9) as Power line and Power Drop. After about 15 feet move slightly right and climb the face (5.8) up to a horizontal crack. Above is a slightly overhanging face with 4 bolts and two 5.10+ sections.


Location 

You can walk on/off via the slabs to the northwest.


Protection 

CDs .3 to 1 inch. Two #00 metolious tcus (or black aliens) are very useful on the section below the first bolt.
Gear anchor: 3-4 inches.



Comments on Power Failure Add Comment
Show which comments
By Bob Gaines
Jun 1, 2008

While there are no moves harder than 10+, the upper face is sustained, reachy, and tricky; probably 11a for the on-sight leader. High quality rock and fun moves- the upper face is bolted like a sport climb. Getting to the first bolt, however, will be more than a little scary if you don't have the right pro.

By Murf
Oct 20, 2008

Didn't place any truly small gear, protected high on Power Line, and then moved a bit down and right, then up to the bolt.

Really enjoyed this route, another well protected gem by Bob. Felt there was a real crux at the 3rd bolt, took me a while to read it.