Power Failure 5.11a
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| Type: | Trad, 1 pitch, 70 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.11a [details] |
| FA: | Bob Gaines and Frank Bentwood, May, 2008 |
| New Route: | Yes |
| Submitted By: | Bob Gaines on Jun 1, 2008 |
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BETA PHOTO: Power Failure
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A portion of the wall is closed due to Indian rock art. MORE INFO >>>
The route Energy Crisis and the rock for 50' on either side of its are closed to climbing to protect Native American rock art in the vicinity.
This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project.
You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.
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Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment
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Description Same start (5.8/9) as Power line and Power Drop. After about 15 feet move slightly right and climb the face (5.8) up to a horizontal crack. Above is a slightly overhanging face with 4 bolts and two 5.10+ sections.
Location You can walk on/off via the slabs to the northwest.
Protection CDs .3 to 1 inch. Two #00 metolious tcus (or black aliens) are very useful on the section below the first bolt.
Gear anchor: 3-4 inches.
| Comments on Power Failure |
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By Bob Gaines
Jun 1, 2008
| While there are no moves harder than 10+, the upper face is sustained, reachy, and tricky; probably 11a for the on-sight leader. High quality rock and fun moves- the upper face is bolted like a sport climb. Getting to the first bolt, however, will be more than a little scary if you don't have the right pro. |
By Murf
Oct 20, 2008
| Didn't place any truly small gear, protected high on Power Line, and then moved a bit down and right, then up to the bolt.
Really enjoyed this route, another well protected gem by Bob. Felt there was a real crux at the 3rd bolt, took me a while to read it. |
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