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 ADVANCED
Little Hunk - NE Face (Right)
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Blue Diamond (aka Shock to the System) T 
Blues Traveller T 
Changes S 
Disrythmia S 
Electralux T 
Electric Blue S 
Flower Power T 
Incandescent S 
New Deal  S 
Potato Head T,TR 
Power Drop T 
Power Failure T 
Power Line T 
Rad Nad S 
Smear Factor S 
Team Scumbag T 
ZZZZZ T 
ZZZZZ Direct Start T 

Power Failure 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Bob Gaines and Frank Bentwood, May, 2008
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 572
Submitted By: Bob Gaines on Jun 1, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (7)
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BETA PHOTO: Power Failure

A portion of the wall is closed due to Indian rock art. MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Same start (5.8/9) as Power line and Power Drop. After about 15 feet move slightly right and climb the face (5.8) up to a horizontal crack. Above is a slightly overhanging face with 4 bolts and two 5.10+ sections.

Location 

You can walk on/off via the slabs to the northwest.

Protection 

CDs .3 to 1 inch. Two #00 metolious tcus (or black aliens) are very useful on the section below the first bolt.
Gear anchor: 3-4 inches.


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By Bob Gaines
Jun 1, 2008

While there are no moves harder than 10+, the upper face is sustained, reachy, and tricky; probably 11a for the on-sight leader. High quality rock and fun moves- the upper face is bolted like a sport climb. Getting to the first bolt, however, will be more than a little scary if you don't have the right pro.
By Murf
Oct 20, 2008

Didn't place any truly small gear, protected high on Power Line, and then moved a bit down and right, then up to the bolt.

Really enjoyed this route, another well protected gem by Bob. Felt there was a real crux at the 3rd bolt, took me a while to read it.