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Routes in I. Washington Column
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Afroman T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b A3+ |
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Astroman T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Direct Route T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Electric Ladyland 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c A3+ |
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Jo Jo T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Mideast Crisis T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c A2 |
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Nowhere Man T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Pitch to Nowhere T A3 |
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Power Failure T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Prow, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c C2 |
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Re-Animator, The 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c A3+ |
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Skull Queen T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c C2 |
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South Face T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c C1 |
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Southern Man T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a C2 |
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Ten Days After T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c C3 |
Order Wrong?
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| Type: | Trad, 5 pitches |
| FA: | Ray Jardine, Linda McGinnis, Mark Vallance, 10/1975 |
| Page Views: | 3,209 total · 16/month |
| Shared By: | Alex Shainman on Jul 10, 2007 |
| Admins: | Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Access Issue: Latest updates on closures, permits, and regulations.
Details
Please visit climbingyosemite.com/ and nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the latest information on visiting Yosemite, including permits, regulations, and closure information.
Yosemite National Park has yearly closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection March 1- July 15. Always check the NPS website at nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the most current details and park alerts, and to learn more about the peregrine falcon, and how closures help it survive. This page also shares closures and warnings due to current fires, smoke, etc.
Yosemite National Park has yearly closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection March 1- July 15. Always check the NPS website at nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the most current details and park alerts, and to learn more about the peregrine falcon, and how closures help it survive. This page also shares closures and warnings due to current fires, smoke, etc.
Description
As a whole the route is a total pile but the crux (second) pitch is quite good and burly.
P1. Do a bouldery move up the left side of the mini amphitheater to some interesting moves around a hollow block to an ant-infested tree. (5.8+)
P2. The Business...Bearhug up a big inset flake to the base of the open bombay corner/roof. A sling around the flake plus big cams is your pro (If you only bring up to one #4 old-style Camalot (3-1/2" piece as the book recommends) like I did, its kinda scary but more like the F.A.)...Do some height-dependent stem/chimney/OW moves up the corner and pull a crazy stack/leg jam side-switch move over the roof (wild)...Once above the roof its 10- cruiser right side in OW or lieback/stem to another bulge. Continue past the crack which is narrowing and gets dirty and grassy. (11-, 120' 2-bolt anchor)
P3. If you're stubborn and want to finish... Wedge/crawl through another ant-infested big bush and run-it-out up a big dirty corner with many loose (some teetering) blocks, past one pin, to another ledge with a tree. (5.9- X)
P4. Actually an interesting slab/crack past a couple old pins and OK gear. Kinda scaly/dirty, though...Imagine that! (10 R)
Last pitch (or two)...Long upward and left traversing pitch all the way to lunch ledge area.
Descend the not-so-pleasant brush-wracked gully to the base, below your packs
P1. Do a bouldery move up the left side of the mini amphitheater to some interesting moves around a hollow block to an ant-infested tree. (5.8+)
P2. The Business...Bearhug up a big inset flake to the base of the open bombay corner/roof. A sling around the flake plus big cams is your pro (If you only bring up to one #4 old-style Camalot (3-1/2" piece as the book recommends) like I did, its kinda scary but more like the F.A.)...Do some height-dependent stem/chimney/OW moves up the corner and pull a crazy stack/leg jam side-switch move over the roof (wild)...Once above the roof its 10- cruiser right side in OW or lieback/stem to another bulge. Continue past the crack which is narrowing and gets dirty and grassy. (11-, 120' 2-bolt anchor)
- If you want to get a buzz-kill, keep going or better yet rap off and do better pitches somewhere else.
P3. If you're stubborn and want to finish... Wedge/crawl through another ant-infested big bush and run-it-out up a big dirty corner with many loose (some teetering) blocks, past one pin, to another ledge with a tree. (5.9- X)
P4. Actually an interesting slab/crack past a couple old pins and OK gear. Kinda scaly/dirty, though...Imagine that! (10 R)
Last pitch (or two)...Long upward and left traversing pitch all the way to lunch ledge area.
Descend the not-so-pleasant brush-wracked gully to the base, below your packs
Photos
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