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 ADVANCED
The Hand
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Back in Slacks S 
Back in Yaks T,TR 
Cardboard Cowboy S 
East Face/Hand T 
Father on Fire T,S 
Lackin' Slacks (aka The Full Monty) T 
New Saigon S 
Perfect Kiss (P1 of Rock Atrocity), The S 
Power Bulge S 
Quest for Balance S,TR 
Rock Atrocity S 

Power Bulge 

YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Hank Caylor
Page Views: 4,837
Submitted By: Ben Hoyt on Sep 1, 2001

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Greg Hand (in a previous century) beginning the cr...

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  • Description 

    This route is on the south face of The Hand, just to the (climber's) right of Rock Atrocity on the very overhung southwest face and to the left of another slightly easier bolted line.

    Protection 

    6 or 7 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor.


    Photos of Power Bulge Slideshow Add Photo
    Ian cranking through the crux of Power Bulge.
    Ian cranking through the crux of Power Bulge.
    Paul above the steep and crimpy face.
    Paul above the steep and crimpy face.
    The old hardware pulled from Power Bulge -- these are the allen-key bolts, and the stud is only about 1/2-inch long. They were all rusted, as well, and are probably only locked in about three or four threads deep inside the sleeve.
    The old hardware pulled from Power Bulge -- these ...
    The tree provides motivation in more ways than one. It assists in hanging the draws, and the threat of punji sticking yourself on it keeps you from falling at the crux.
    The tree provides motivation in more ways than one...
    Ben entering the crux of Power Bulge.
    Ben entering the crux of Power Bulge.
    PB takes its toll.
    PB takes its toll.
    Paul moving from the jugs onto the steep face.
    Paul moving from the jugs onto the steep face.
    Mike moving into the upper crux.
    Mike moving into the upper crux.

    Comments on Power Bulge Add Comment
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    Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Sep 13, 2010
    By Steve Levin
    From: Boulder, CO
    Jan 30, 2002

    Power Bulge is an excellent, technical, powerful route. The wall gets good sun, making this a good winter location to climb (if the trails getting there are not too snowed under). After a series of strenuous but not-too-difficult moves, the climber is faced with a thin crux at the bulge involving something of a reach on fairly small holds. I found the body position for setting up this move crucial to success, and the footwork equally as important as was finger strength. The final wall is sustained, crimpy, but should not prove to be a show-stopper on the redpoint (or flash). Of the eight or so routes on this wall, Power Bulge is certainly the best (on Rock Atrocity and several others, rock quality is a bit questionable). The 5.11 to the right has fun heuco climbing, maybe 2 stars. To the left is a flake with a bolt and several fixed pins, a strenuous but somewhat unrewarding 5.11 pitch (1 star). The corrider left yields several good routes and a couple real stinkers- one with poor anchors to boot. These climbs get good afternoon sun. And of course the Drugs wall just south has a crimpy 5.10 and 5.11 route or two worth doing. A nice hang. A good day can be had by starting in lower Bear Canyon on Thought Control, Sneak Preview, Hot Spit etc, then wandering up the gully to the Drugs and Power Bulge Walls. Someone could do big community service by removing the stray bolt just left of Power Bulge, and filling in that hole and the obviuos hole right next to it.
    By KCP
    From: Eldorado Springs, CO
    Jul 16, 2005
    rating: 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b

    I'm pretty sure that this is Hank Caylor's route. It is a Front Range classic, and worth the hike. Watch out for the Poison Ivy.
    By Anonymous Coward
    Jul 18, 2005

    Rumor has it P-Bulge was recently chopped? Anyone know morw?
    By ac
    Jul 18, 2005

    I've heard that there are severe issues with many Dinosaur Mtn sport routes. Some unintentional illegality and thus possible access issues here. There were some hints of this on cb.com, but many of those comments have been deleted, and the full extent of the issue was never fully disclosed. I would have thought this would have been cleared up by now... perhaps now is the time, folks?
    By ?????
    Nov 14, 2005

    Short but fun...
    By ?????
    Nov 15, 2005

    From what I could tell they were older (original?) hangers and it didn't look like any of them had been chopped, but I wasn't inspecting them with that in mind.
    By ac
    Nov 22, 2005

    I was up there this morning and, to me, it looks like Power Bulge was never chopped. That is, unless someone had a stash of vintage hangers and ring bolts that they used to "restore" this route. In that same area, Street Hassle, Back in Slacks, and Drugs, however, all have brand new hardware.
    By Hank Caylor
    Administrator
    From: Golden, CO
    Mar 30, 2008

    Samet, how dare you and your ilk re-bolt my 20 year old, anciently protected, bolted when I was in High School, 45' tall, a full page Sportiva ad with a totally ripped off route name without permission.......Thanx bro! If any maintenence help is needed, give a call. See ya on the 6th.

    Caylor
    By doug rouse
    From: Denver, CO.
    Jul 18, 2008

    Thanks to Matt Samet for taking the initiative, the time, and expense to replace old hardware. I rate this climb as one of the best at the grade that I have done. Now I have another reason to return to Dinosaur Mtn. I hope the anchor/bolt renewal continues, as there are numerous gems up there! Young Doug.
    By Ben Scott
    From: Fort Collins, CO
    Feb 10, 2009

    All right, so what's up with the tree?
    The tree below this route is slowly but surely creeping closer.
    Two friends of mine took whippers into it on Saturday...yikes!
    I wanted to just chop 4-6ft off the top, but they wouldn't have it.

    What is the protocol for this sort if issue in the Flatirons?
    Is there a tree chopping initiative proposal?

    It's only a matter of time before the route is un-climbable because of said tree.
    Thoughts?
    By YDPL8S
    From: Santa Monica, Ca.
    Feb 10, 2009

    It's nature's way of receiving you.
    It's nature's way of retrieving you.
    It's nature's way of telling you.
    Something's wrong.
    By Tank Evans
    Mar 7, 2010

    The tree has been lopped (or some poor bastard broke it on a fall).
    Has anyone ever ended up with this broken tree up their anus?
    It looks even sketchier than having the actual limbs there.
    By Matt Henderson
    Sep 13, 2010

    About said tree - I took a fall at the last clip yesterday and missed being impaled by about 6 inches. I'm not exaggerating, and it scared the hell out of everyone there (including me). I only ended up scraping the right cheek but ended up about shoulder level with the pointed end of the tree. I would gladly go top off about 3ft if allowed...but until then, be careful.