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Child Free Zone (aka Parkway Crags)
Routes Sorted
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5.8 Crack T 
Big Loose Goose? S 
Child Abuse T 
Cool Thing S 
Fergus Traverse 
Hairball T 
Mohare Eclaire S 
Monkey Puzzle S 
Mousetrap T 
Off Guard S 
Parental Abuse S 
Power and Lies S 
Puzzled Monkey S 
Rafiki S 
Rodent, The S 
Skin Deep S 
Unknown S 
Unknown Crack T 
Unknown Q S 
Unknown Rib S 
Uomama bin Rotten TR 

Power and Lies 

YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Wright, Tarrant, Veraldi, 2003
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 1,286
Submitted By: Richard M. Wright on Dec 6, 2003

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Yvonne D'Andrea stemming up the lower section.
Access Fund still owns Golden Cliffs property; soon to be transferred to Jefferson County MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Power and Lies ascends the face and arete just right of the Un-named Monkey. This line was originally envisioned to keep on the arete (5.10+), but will most likely get done via the face and trough on the left (5.9). Fun climbing on good stone, with a small thrill popping on to the ledge. FFA for arete variation went to Mark Tarrant.


Protection 

Eight draws and a rope. It shares an anchor with Cool Thing and GWB.



Photos of Power and Lies Slideshow Add Photo
Power and Lies.  The easiest line uses the crack on the left (in the shade) and stems right to make the clips.
BETA PHOTO: Power and Lies. The easiest line uses the crack o...
Power and Lies, Off Guard, and Cool Thing.
BETA PHOTO: Power and Lies, Off Guard, and Cool Thing.
Josh Darnell skipping bolts, Power and Lies, N. Table, Jan. 2012.
Josh Darnell skipping bolts, Power and Lies, N. Ta...
Comments on Power and Lies Add Comment
Show which comments
By Leo Paik
Administrator
From: Westminster, Colorado
Mar 10, 2004
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

There is a loose block jug that is all chalked up in the trough/groove on the L. Beware, it is hollow, it shifts, & will come out in time (hopefully not on your belayer).

By Ron Olsen
From: Boulder, CO
Oct 26, 2004
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

The easiest line works the crack to the left, stemming right to make the clips. Climbing the bolt line more directly looked quite difficult.

After leading this route, you can top-rope Off Guard and Cool Thing if you don't want to lead those more difficult routes.

By Ian Welch
From: Denver, CO
Sep 19, 2006
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

Great route, follow up the thin crack to the right (left of the bolt route) for a nice line. The bolt route seemed a bit scant for holds, where does the 5.10+ come from?

By Jay Samuelson
From: Denver CO
Mar 2, 2008
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b

I would say this is 10+ if you stay in the crack immediately to the left of the bolt line, without going into the big gully. Staying in the 'mini-dehidral' makes for a fun and interesting sequence of moves.

By AOSR
From: Wherever we park!
Mar 31, 2010
rating: 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

One of those routes where it could be hard if you don't use certain features etc, etc.... Skip this one and do one of the good lines to right as a warm up for Monkey Puzzle.

By Dave Clark 5.10
From: Golden, CO
Mar 8, 2011
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

I agree that Power and Lies is probably 5.9 if one stays within reach of the bolts yet uses the larger cracks on the left side of the lower inset and 5.10+ for the thin crack on the right side of the lower portion. With trad gear, the lower cracks might be 5.8 but still 5.9 to get to the top (which is worthwhile). Top anchors are two bolts higher and different than shared top anchors for Off Guard and Cool Thing.

By Richard M. Wright
From: Lakewood, CO
Feb 20, 2014

I watched some folks climbing PAL just recently, and it seems pretty clear why this route, unlike the two routes left of it, gets such disparate grades: 5.9 to 5.10+. When climbed on the bolt line and not well left of the bolts, it is good and solid 5.10, perhaps 5.10c. When done using the face on the left, it comes in close to 5.9, give or take a bit. Whatever works. Leading from the left does entail stretching over to the clips, so watch out.