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Valley Massif
Routes Sorted
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Been Hair Done That 
Bill Steal 
Bittersweet 
Hair of the Dog 
Hammer 
Hooker 
Internal Combustion 
King of Coney Island 
Ladder 
Monkey Wrench 
Nail 
Powder Puff 
Quits 
Screw 
Slut, The 
Soft Touch 
Sunny Day 
Tail Spin 
Tea Grinder 
Tool Or Die 
Zipper 
Unsorted Routes:

Powder Puff 

YDS: 5.4 French: 4a Ewbanks: 12 UIAA: IV British: VD 3c

   
Type: Trad, 1 pitch, 90'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.4 French: 4a Ewbanks: 12 UIAA: IV British: VD 3c [details]
FA: Phil Fowler, Jerry Sublett, c. 1970
Page Views: 1,440
Submitted By: Gary Schmidt on Jun 12, 2007
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You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (8)
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Eric leading the starting ramp (his fifth trad lea...

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Description 

Powder Puff is as great a 5.4 as you will find anywhere. It is a trad climb requiring some fist-size cams.

Start inside the left side of the slot, and climb up using some fun chimney moves to good holds (unprotected). Move a bit left and gain an excellent, uniform, hand crack and follow that to a ledge. Look a bit left and you will see an amazing, big, chickenhead. This is technically the beginning of second pitch called Corbet Exit. Strange as it, basically only involved one 5.5 mantel move (unprotected) on the chickenhead. If this is too much for you, it is easy to traverse to a bit farther to the right.

Walk off as per Sunny Day or head left and set up a top rope anchor with the chain anchors on the route to the left, Bittersweet (hard 9).


Location 

to be filled in


Protection 

This requires some fist-sized cams.



Photos of Powder Puff Slideshow Add Photo
Elli Johnson moving up Powder Puff.
Elli Johnson moving up Powder Puff.
Angela just avoids using her chin as a balance point as she does the full-on mantel of the Corbel Finish.
Angela just avoids using her chin as a balance poi...
The walk off from the climbs on the right side of the Valley Massif's SE face involves threading this exciting chimney.  Strapping men and large-chested women beware!
The walk off from the climbs on the right side of ...
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By Tyson S Arp
Jun 15, 2007

Definitely do the Corbel Exit if you can talk yourself into it! It's only one move, but boy is it fun.
If you're chicken like me, a carefully laid runner can be tied around the corbel for some protection. There is a chance this would hold a fall, but mostly it just gives you a little peace of mind, since your last piece of pro will be well below you by the time you get to the corbel. Realistically, the corbel sits above a large enough ledge that if you feel like you're not going to make it you can just hop back down to the ledge and give it another try.

By Charles Danforth
From: L'ville, CO
Nov 11, 2007

Avoid the chimney start and follow the thin right-leaning ramp/hand traverse to the start of the crack. Pro is thin, but a couple small cams provide more protection than the unprotected chimney start. Nice climb with a nice crack.