Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
The Dihedrals
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Almost Nothing S 
Ancylostoma S 
Bookworm T,S 
Bunny Face S 
Captain Xenolith S 
Chain Reaction S 
Cinnamon Slab T 
Cognition  S 
Crossfire S 
Cry Babies S 
Darkness At Noon S 
Easy Reader S 
Evil Sister aka Ugly Sister S 
Flat Earth, The S 
Fox In Socks S 
French Connection T,S 
Ginger Snap S 
Go Dog Go S 
Heinous Cling S 
Helium Woman S 
Karate Crack T 
Karate Wall (aka Powerline) S 
Karot Tots T 
Last Waltz S 
Latest Rage S 
Latin Lover S 
Left Slab Crack S 
Lichen It S 
Lycopodophyta T 
Middle Aged Vandal S 
Moondance S 
Moonshine Dihedral T 
Night Flight S 
Powder in the Eyes S 
Rabbit Stew T 
Rattlesnake Chimney T 
Rebirth S 
Right Slab Crack T 
Rodney's Chocolate Frosted Love Donut S 
Slow Burn T,S 
Sunshine Dihedral T 
Take a Powder S 
To Bolt Or Not To Be S 
Vision S 
Watts Totts S 
Wedding Day S 

Powder in the Eyes 

YDS: 5.12+ French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX ZA: 27 British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 95'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12+ French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX ZA: 27 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: JB's sub-man (Jean Marc Troussier, 1986)
Page Views: 1,529
Submitted By: Monomaniac on Apr 2, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [2 people like this page.]

Seasonal Raptor Closure 2012 MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This notorious sandbag is perhaps the most neglected sport route in the Dihedrals (other contenders: Peepshow, Almost Nothing?). Given 5.12c in the Watts Guide, this line is a big step up in difficulty from Full Heinous or Last Waltz. Many a hard man has been spanked by the deceptive, continuous, funkery lurking innocently left of Take a Powder.

However, if you can get past the grade issue, this line offers a full (half) rope-length of stellar movement on Smith's top-shelf stone.

Begin with the first 3 bolts of Take a Powder. Veer left along the obvious undercling flake, and tackle the subtle arete feature. The first crux hits just above the 4th bolt, then a good clipping stance at the 5th, then the next crux, slapping the left hand up the arete with tricky feet and a difficult 2-finger pocket move. Above the climbing eases slightly, but remains quite technical.

This route can feel pretty sharp if you pick a warm day. There seems to be two ways to consider the grade: 5.12 moves with 5.13 beta, or 5.13 moves with 5.12 beta. In any case, this one won't be down-rated from 12c any time soon!

Location 

On the panel right of To Bolt, sharing the start with Take a Powder.

Protection 

Bolts, 2 Bolt anchor.


Comments on Powder in the Eyes Add Comment
Show which comments
By Jay Knower
Administrator
From: Campton, NH
Apr 2, 2007

This is a great description. As someone who has not done the route, I feel like now I know a great deal about it...plus I know now not to get on it unless I'm having one of those rare low-gravity days.
By Wolfgang Braun
From: Beavercreek, Oregon
Oct 15, 2008

Guess I'll wait a bit before I get on this one. Better tune in my technical arete skills. You definitely gave a really good description about it.