Powder in the Eyes
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This notorious sandbag is perhaps the most neglected sport route in the Dihedrals (other contenders: Peepshow, Almost Nothing?). Given 5.12c in the Watts Guide, this line is a big step up in difficulty from Full Heinous or Last Waltz. Many a hard man has been spanked by the deceptive, continuous, funkery lurking innocently left of Take a Powder.
However, if you can get past the grade issue, this line offers a full (half) rope-length of stellar movement on Smith's top-shelf stone.
Begin with the first 3 bolts of Take a Powder. Veer left along the obvious undercling flake, and tackle the subtle arete feature. The first crux hits just above the 4th bolt, then a good clipping stance at the 5th, then the next crux, slapping the left hand up the arete with tricky feet and a difficult 2-finger pocket move. Above the climbing eases slightly, but remains quite technical.
This route can feel pretty sharp if you pick a warm day. There seems to be two ways to consider the grade: 5.12 moves with 5.13 beta, or 5.13 moves with 5.12 beta. In any case, this one won't be down-rated from 12c any time soon!
On the panel right of To Bolt, sharing the start with Take a Powder.
Bolts, 2 Bolt anchor.
By Jay Knower
From: Campton, NH
Apr 2, 2007
This is a great description. As someone who has not done the route, I feel like now I know a great deal about it...plus I know now not to get on it unless I'm having one of those rare low-gravity days.
By Wolfgang Braun
From: Beavercreek, Oregon
Oct 15, 2008
Guess I'll wait a bit before I get on this one. Better tune in my technical arete skills. You definitely gave a really good description about it.