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Pow! Right in the Kisser 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 40'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6a [details]
FA: TF & SL
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 1,007
Submitted By: Fertical on Feb 2, 2011
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Description 

Same angle as Luscious but without the bucket-ladder. Crux after clipping the 4th bolt and again after the 5th.


Location 

Left of Luscious


Protection 

5 bolts and double mussy hook chain anchor



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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Apr 29, 2013
By shaking man
Feb 12, 2011

Everything out there is choss!! Luscious was very similar in the beginning, it just takes 5-10 years for routes at Malibu to clean up ;-).

I like the bolts.

By Fertical
Feb 12, 2011

If you put in the effort to comment, at least [sic] some effort to be accurate. The bolts are 1/2" x 4.75" 5 piece rawl stainless steel plated (equivalent to the best bolts placed in MCSP). A great deal of work went into cleaning. Like every new route in MCSP, there will be residual stuff, but nothing that will endanger a belayer. If you can't handle this, don't climb new routes in Malibu (it's not granite). And cheer up! From the sound of it, the only thing that's going to ruin your belayer's day is you.

By Jan Roestel
Feb 17, 2011

Those are good sized bolts. I thought powers made SS and zinc plated bolts, but I didn't know they made a combination of the two.

By Fertical
Mar 11, 2011

Jan, you are correct, they are stainless steel, not plated. www.powers.com/pdfs/mechanical/06914.pdf

By Domester
Aug 31, 2011

This route is seriously ridiculous. I'm not going to criticize the FA, because i know a lot of hard work went into cleaning this thing, and its defiantly not good rock.

This is a relevant suggestion for climbers. Do not climb this route. its on the worst rock at Malibu, completely sandbagged, and is very, very dirty. still. Don't let the bolts deceive you like they did me. Don't even try to climb it even just to say you did it. It's not worth the time and cleaning sand out of your eyes as you reach for crumbling holds.

To the FA, the bolts are very deceiving to show that there is a quality route here. You are seriously putting people in danger, and think you should seriously think a lot more before you put up any new routes.

Climbers, do not waste our time, do like 4 laps on luscious if you really wanna climb choss.

By Daryl Allan
From: Sierra Vista, AZ
Aug 31, 2011

What's dangerous about it?

By Domester
Sep 2, 2011

FACT: Timebomb holds are unsafe for belayer and climber.

By james T.
Oct 20, 2011

It's cleaning up alright, give it time and it should be a nice route. Does anyone know when the huge new boulder fell off the bottom? The one that looks like it's about 400 lbs.

By Fertical
Mar 31, 2012

The boulder at the bottom came off as part of the initial cleaning before it was bolted. Timebomb holds? Route's been up over a year now with well over 100 ascents and not one handhold has come off (though some potato chip feet have as with any new route in Malibu). But hey, don't climb it. Keeps it open for me.

By Joi-Bobby Laos
Jul 23, 2012

I thought the route was awesome... even snagged a pretty dope photo off of it. holds seemed fine to me, a bit dusty, but who cares, you're outside. want something crystal clean? pay the $15 for a day pass, but even the holds in there are questionable at times...

By Trevor V.
From: Santa Barbara, Ca
Dec 12, 2012
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a

The route is still a little dirty but a fun line. Nothing seems like its going to kill the belayer. And hey, it has nice new bolts on it so can't complain to much.

By ConradS
Apr 29, 2013

Great route with some interesting moves. I didn't notice any weak holds. Seems to be cleaning up from the earlier posters. If you get off route to the left its a bit chossy, but that's off route anyway. Great bolts and anchor. Thanks go out to the route setter.