Potter's Point Rock Climbing
A layout of the routes at Potter's Point
Some short moderate sport climbs and topropes in a beautiful pine forest setting with panoramic views of the Pacific Ocean, the Channel Islands, Santa Barbara and Goleta. The rock is of decent quality (per SB), and generally contains a bit of lichen due to the lack of traffic.
The fantastic Caveman Boulder, with ***/**** sport routes from 5.11 to 5.13 is also located in this area, and is a must-visit spot for the "hard" sportster.
Driving up Gibraltar Rd from town, take a left at the Gibraltar Road/Camino Cielo "T" and park in a turnout on the left side of the road. Walk back DOWN Gibraltar Road about 100 feet, then take a trail up and to your right. The trail is actually in pretty good condition. Once you climb the small peak and enter a boulder field overlook, use the attached photo to figure out where the climbs are located. The trail continues into the boulderfield, but don't expect much of a trail to or between the individual routes. Some minor bushwhacking will ensue.
Weather station 2.2 miles from here
9 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',3],['2 Stars',2],['1 Star',3],['Bomb',0]
Classic Climbing Routes in Potter's Point
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Potter's Point
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Potter's Point:
Caveman 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a Sport, 60'
Omega Glory 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c Sport, 1 pitch, 45'
Featured Route For Potter's Point
Omega Glory 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c CA
: Central Coast
: ... : Potter's Point
The route just to the right of caveman. It starts on a small boulder next to the wall where you can reach up and clip the first bolt from the ground. The start is as hard as it looks. Sustained hard moves end at the caveman anchor. The route is very well protected and can be toproped using a directional bolt found at the top. ...[more] Browse More Classics in CA
Caveman boulder at Potter's Point. Pretzel Logic t...
By Richard Shore
Sep 11, 2012
The Caveman Boulder's sport climbs also belong on this page, but alas, some poor misguided soul decided to hide them within the dark depths of the Potter's Point Bouldering page...
Admins (Andy/Mike)?? Maybe we can fix this?
By andy patterson
From: Carpinteria, CA
Sep 11, 2012
Good call, Richard. I'm not really sure how Caveman ended up in the bouldering pages. Thanks for clearing things up. Anyways, here's the skinny:
For the Caveman boulder, approach via main trail, and when you gain the bouldering area (15-20 minute hike) keep heading downhill and to the left. You will see a very large south-facing boulder/prow fronted by some pine trees. All the routes are on the ocean side of things.
Jul 8, 2013
Trail becomes vague and hard to follow after the first hill. Stay to the top in large boulder field where there is actually a trail and I highly recommend wearing pants and good footwear. Dead and very abrasive manzanita trees populate the base of these rocks making getting around very difficult.