A quarter mile further up the road from Sespe Gorge (Black Wall) lies this 80' cliff sporting a handful of quality sport routes. Bring traditional gear if planning on climbing the solitary trad line, Beginnings (5.5). Also, some supplementary gear (nuts, TCUs) is recommended if leading Menage a Trois (5.10b). A single rope is sufficient to get off all routes.
Information care of the late Reese Martin: "In 1995 Potero John Wall was retro-bolted with fat 3/8" bolts and additional anchors were added. This turned what had been a collection of runout 1/4" spinner horror-shows, into a friendly and fun place for the moderate climber. All five bolted routes are worthwhile. When you climb the insecure, tricky seam in the middle of the face, Menage a Trois, 5.10b, remember the route was first climbed in EBs and protected only by wired stoppers in 1976 by "Hot" Henry Barber and Yvon Chouinard. The bolts appeared recently. After your day of climbing be sure to check out the numerous swimming holes nearby. There is a great barefoot boulder traverse over the big pool 200 yards upstream. Fall off and you're wet."
1/4 mile up the road from Sespe's main "Black Wall". Park in a dirt turnout and walk down the hillside, across Sespe Creek. Approach time: 5 minutes.
From Tradgirl.com (c)Reese Martin 1997
8 Total Routes
Browse More Classics in Potrero John
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Potrero John:
Beginnings 5.5 4b 13 IV+ MS 4a Trad
Miccis 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c Sport
Migrating Coconuts (aka Zyzzxx) 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a Sport, 1 pitch
Cleaning Lady 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a Sport, 80'
Menage a Trois 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b PG13 Sport
Should I Stay 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII E2 5b Sport, 1 pitch, 40'
Should I Go (aka El Potrero) 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII E2 5b Sport, 1 pitch, 40'
Color Blind (aka Rubber Man) 5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b Sport
Featured Route For Potrero John
Beginnings 5.5 4b 13 IV+ MS 4a CA : Central Coast : ... : Potrero John
Like "the Ladder" at Gibraltar, this is not the most flattering name. Yet, it's an outstanding route--steep and sustained, absolutely wild considering the modest grade.Walk off left down the class 4 gully or right down a trail and easy slabs....[more] Browse More Classics in CA
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