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Getting into the crux of Potato Head
|A portion of the wall is closed due to Indian rock art. MORE INFO >>>|
Two obvious, vertical cracks will be seen on the Northeast face, right. Climb these cracks to the top. We TR'd this route, and I'm glad we did. The pro in the upper crack is PG with a runout. I suggest you TR it, and check it out before doing a lead. As I rapped it, I noted some problems setting pro in the crux area; and a fall there could be very serious indeed.
By Peter Valchev
From: Truckee, CA
Mar 6, 2016
rating: 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
This isn't any scarier to lead than many other 5.10+ at JTree. There are at least 2 solid pieces to keep you off the ground, and probably about 8 feet gap to the next one (in a horizontal). It's a bit heady to climb above your gear in a flaring crack like this, sure, but not really deserving of this description downgrading to a toprope (I hadn't climbed much in a year, and led this based on the star rating in the guidebook finding it pretty exciting). Anyway, if you are in the area check it out... it's just as fun and maybe safer than the face routes nearby (like ZZZZ), and you can always bail off a piece of gear and rap to retrieve it.